Lund Front Deck Support Help

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yep - very simple and STABLE if you put enough rivets and bolts into it.
Notice that wood "appears" to be pressure treated plywood.
one of the most controversial topics on this forum.
in MY world, I would use P/T if there is only minimal surface contact such as in
this photo. Some kind of insulation between the metal and wood would really prevent
any problems down range. Such as electrical tape, cut up bleach jug strips, etc.
But, in my past experience, primers and paint do not adhere well to it. (for carpet glue)
So with that in mind, the P/T wood must be bone dry prior to putting anything on it.

when it comes to bending angle brackets like you asked about, I think most of us put
the piece in a vice and work it into the correct angle with a hammer. Aluminum is very malleable
and easily bent and formed into shape without heat, just by hand tools only.
Thus, a 50 pound vice near your boat will be of a convenience to you.
My vice and anvil is on a tree stump out in the side yard.
That is for the thicker, 1/8" metals. The thinner metals can be worked into shape after it is riveted
to your hull.

If you want to use a full strip of angle and make the relief cuts into the metal to match your hull's profile,
Just cut your angle aluminum as in your photo so it will mold to your boats profile.
It can be held into place with a few self tapping screws and formed into shape - BEFORE - applying 500 rivets.
Once you are satisfied with your work, take a break, walk away, come back later, look it over.
If it is how you want it, put in some rivets - take the screws out - replace them with rivets.

Happy Boating !!!
 
Well...here goes. Some pics from start of new front deck. I may replace the piece running across with a piece of aluminum rectangular tubing and just brace deck right into it along with alum brackets along inside of the rail with stainless bolts and nylocks. That would make it ultra strong.
 

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Any suggestions on filling the holes in the rail? I was just going to get some stainless button head screws with silicone and put those in. Doesn't seem like there is a really good "pretty" solution unless you can think of anything.
 
kevin t said:
Any suggestions on filling the holes in the rail? I was just going to get some stainless button head screws with silicone and put those in. Doesn't seem like there is a really good "pretty" solution unless you can think of anything.

You could fill w/ JB weld, sand down and paint to match.

The grooves do pose an issue though.
 
If I am seeing what I think I am seeing....your trolling motor is well supported on one end, and loose on the other. Which is how it has to be, of course.

A friend found his trolling motor head was banging and knocking both on the road and while underway at speed. He added a support under the shaft near the loose end.

In his case, he had some silicone caulking that had dried in the tube. He cut the tube away and used the remaining "tube" of silicone to make a neat, flexible and not too bad looking vertical support beneath the loose shaft.

Anyhow, just a thought. Looks good as it is. richg99
 
Everything sealed and solid as hell. Need to mount trolling motor bracket and run electric. Not to bad for a first timer.
 

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