My First Boat Restoration

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Most of the time pulling the old now swollen transom wood is a fight. Be sure you have all the bolts and the drain tubes out.
Good luck.
 
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
Most of the time pulling the old now swollen transom wood is a fight. Be sure you have all the bolts and the drain tubes out.
Good luck.

That's tomorrow nights goal. But it is bone dry and rotted. I hope I can get it out in one piece.
 
Aaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhh Sweet success!!! The closest it was to being sealed was the black paint used to cover up all the holes in the transom.
 

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lckstckn2smknbrls said:
What are you going to make the new transom from?

I thought I'd just use 3/4" plywood and try real hard to get it as sealed as possible. I know I'm not suppose to use treated lumber.
 
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
In one piece it will make a good templet.

3 pieces... close enough. The wood is just falling apart in splinters.
 
New questions. Rivets. There are several places that need to be riveted back together. Mainly the benches to hull. The guy bolted them to the hull instead. I don't know a thing about rivets or what to use. So any help would be great.

I'm tearing into the deck next. I got the pedestal bases out and started taking the lids off the benches. He bolted then down too... and they are so rusted I'm having to drill the heads off. It's slow going.
 
AnglerC said:
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
What are you going to make the new transom from?

I thought I'd just use 3/4" plywood and try real hard to get it as sealed as possible. I know I'm not suppose to use treated lumber.
How thick does the new transom need to be?
You want exterior grade plywood, ACX is the best then there is BCX which is a great choice for a transom. The X means it's made with water proof glue thus exterior grade.
 
AnglerC said:
New questions. Rivets. There are several places that need to be riveted back together. Mainly the benches to hull. The guy bolted them to the hull instead. I don't know a thing about rivets or what to use. So any help would be great.

I'm tearing into the deck next. I got the pedestal bases out and started taking the lids off the benches. He bolted then down too... and they are so rusted I'm having to drill the heads off. It's slow going.
Solid aluminum rivets are the best but you have to buck them. All aluminum closed end blind rivets are good too. Above the water line all aluminum pop rivets are ok.
 
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
AnglerC said:
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
What are you going to make the new transom from?

I thought I'd just use 3/4" plywood and try real hard to get it as sealed as possible. I know I'm not suppose to use treated lumber.
How thick does the new transom need to be?
You want exterior grade plywood, ACX is the best then there is BCX which is a great choice for a transom. The X means it's made with water proof glue thus exterior grade.

Thickness is 1-1/2".

ACX or BCX got it.

Then you mentioned an old timers sealer? Can you give me a little more detail on that stuff and how it's applied and so on?
 
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
AnglerC said:
New questions. Rivets. There are several places that need to be riveted back together. Mainly the benches to hull. The guy bolted them to the hull instead. I don't know a thing about rivets or what to use. So any help would be great.

I'm tearing into the deck next. I got the pedestal bases out and started taking the lids off the benches. He bolted then down too... and they are so rusted I'm having to drill the heads off. It's slow going.
Solid aluminum rivets are the best but you have to buck them. All aluminum closed end blind rivets are good too. Above the water line all aluminum pop rivets are ok.


Will probably use the blind rivets. Don't have the money for all the tools that go with solid ones... Will stainless steel blind rivets work too?
 
Kismet said:
Angler?

you're doing good work.

It is a great project boat. Congratulations.

Thanks Kismet but I haven't really done anything yet... Demolition is easy. LOL... Compliment me when I'm painting her name on her. :mrgreen:
 
Stainless steel is the least reactive of the dissimilar metals but generally cost more than the all aluminum rivets.
2 layers of 3/4" exterior plywood glued with Titebond III or Gorilla glue or Titebonds version of Gorilla glue. I've used both and find TB3 easier to work with.
The transom I treated with the Old Times formula was 1-1/2" thick 60" long and 16" tall. I mixed up a quart of the old timers and had 6oz left over. You keep applying it until it pools up on the wood then wipe off the excess put plenty on the edges. Then let it dry for 72 hours then apply 2 coats of straight Spar. I painted mine to match my boat after the spar.

The Old Timers formula is.
One part Spar varnish or Spar urethane, One part Boiled Linseed oil and two parts Mineral spirts.
 
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
Stainless steel is the least reactive of the dissimilar metals but generally cost more than the all aluminum rivets.
2 layers of 3/4" exterior plywood glued with Titebond III or Gorilla glue or Titebonds version of Gorilla glue. I've used both and find TB3 easier to work with.
The transom I treated with the Old Times formula was 1-1/2" thick 60" long and 16" tall. I mixed up a quart of the old timers and had 6oz left over. You keep applying it until it pools up on the wood then wipe off the excess put plenty on the edges. Then let it dry for 72 hours then apply 2 coats of straight Spar. I painted mine to match my boat after the spar.

The Old Timers formula is.
One part Spar varnish or Spar urethane, One part Boiled Linseed oil and two parts Mineral spirts.

Would I do the decking in the old timer's method too?
 
Yes.
I'd mix up a gallon of it. One quart each of Spar and Boiled Linseed oil and two quarts of Mineral spirts.
If you don't have a gallon container you can mix smaller amounts and mix more as needed.
 
Alright. Tonight progress was slow. I had to remove the switches from the control panel. But that is now out. The other benches are anchored with solid rivets. Do I just grind them off to get the benches out? or is there a trick? My goal is go have the deck out by the end of the weekend.
 
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