New to aluminum boats, open to suggestions.

[Charlesincharge]

Hello,

I am both new to the forum and new to the aluminum boat world. I live in Charleston, SC and am in the market for a new aluminum boat. (or at least new to me) I have had a few smaller glass boats, but in my new area there are a lot of oyster beds and I don't really enjoy spending my time patching gelcoat.

I live equidistant from fresh and saltwater and would most likely go fishing on both depending on the weather and my mood. I have never had a flat bottom boat and would ideally stick with something that has some type of deadrise all the way back to the transom. The HOA requires my boat to be stored in the garage and an 18' boat, motor and trailer is about the maximum I would be able to fit.

I have my eye currently on a Seaark 1860VJ. Can anyone tell me how this would handle the salt water? All I have heard my whole life is that aluminum boats and saltwater don't mix. A quick look around at pretty much every commercial vessel tells me that with some simple maintenance I should be alright.

The Seaark is just what I have seen poking around the internet. I am open to suggestions and guidance.

Thanks in advance.

 

[DaleH]

Can't comment on that hull, but be aware very few tins have deadrise all the way to the stern. One I know what did, and is/was an awesome boat, is the 16' Starcraft Fishmaster model, with 16-degrees deadrise at the stern ...flat floor, side console on starboard-side, storage down the port-side, raised bow deck ... quite the hull! Plenty of pictures of my old one in my sig.

But sounds like you're trailering, so the saltwater effect should be minimal with intermittent use in saltwater, it's not like you're leaving it in there 24/7. But I'd still avoid using carpet on the bunks as that will hold salty water against the hull whilst on the trailer and that WILL corrode the hull; so cover any carpeted trailer bunks with cheap white gutter vinyl material.

Make sure the stern is in good shape and sealed and watch for paint 'blistering' around any stainless steel fastener, as a sure sign the SS is reacting with the tin. If ever installing SS hardware to hold something, wrap body of bolt/screw w/ e-tape or adhesive-lined heatshrink and use nylon washers under the bolt heads and/or nylok nuts - anything to isolate the SS from the tin.

Last point ... have fun!

 

[Charlesincharge]

Those Starcraft look pretty nice, but even the smaller of the Fishmaster series looks to be out of my price range. I have always enjoyed those utility V model boats when ever I have rented them though.

You are correct, the boat will be trailered and not spend any more time in the water than when I am using it. That's a great tip for the bunks, I would not have thought about using vinyl gutter for them. To build off this point, is there any special sealing that should be done to the transom before/after the outboard is mounted? Maybe a rhino lining on the transom? Any other areas in your mind that might need extra sealing?

My background is aircraft and industrial maintenance, so I am not afraid of the sheet metal work. It looks like, however, even the most beat up hulls are still fairly expensive when you can find them.

Fun is always the name of the game! The fresh fish is always a nice bonus as well.

 

[DaleH]

I'd just pull any attached(screws) or SS through-bolt and would reseal with insulating products and goop and such, then re-attach. Make sure the tin top cap is sealed from water ingress from a wave coming up the stern.

To me, a perfectly serviceable 16' rig should run ~$2K used, not sure where your budget is.

Myself? I never buy new ...

 

[Charlesincharge]

Great information. I am big fan of sweat equity. I would ideally find a boat in need of some serious TLC. I didn't have a firm budget in mind, but I dont finance anything unless I can't help it, so a base model I can gradually improve over time appeals to me.

Keeping an eye on facebook marketplace and craigslist can be time consuming though...