Tom Shafer
Member
So would I ! (I own a 1955 Studie 'Conestoga' wagon !)
TinBoats.net
The original aluminum boat site!
Studebaker No. 1 Found
- Thread starter j3greg
- Start date
Help Support TinBoats.net:
That's awesome! My last name is Studebaker! I own a Studebaker boat, hoping to get a Studebaker truck someday
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2018
- Messages
- 61
- Reaction score
- 8
- Location
- Nolan County, Texas
- LOCATION
- Sweetwater, Texas
Reminds me of a Studebaker that was on Craigslist in Southern Oregon about 10 years ago. It was the first I had heard that they even got into the boatbuilding business, and it seems that the Web searching I did taught me that a number of American manufacturers were left at the end of World War II with a lot of aircraft-grade aluminum and the capacity to shape it and rivet it, Studebaker being among them. Building fishing and utility boats was a sensible option.
I remember calling and asking about the boat and being tempted to go look at it, but the photos suggested it was kind of an overbuilt beast. I wonder what became of it.
I remember calling and asking about the boat and being tempted to go look at it, but the photos suggested it was kind of an overbuilt beast. I wonder what became of it.
sonny.barile
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2015
- Messages
- 366
- Reaction score
- 86
- Location
- Secaucus, New Jersey
- LOCATION
- Secaucus, NJ
What a find……….Im not sure I would be able to part with that.
So I'm about to get started working on the bottom of my Studebaker boat and I have a question. There is already flex seal, paint, and other materials patching the bottom. Should I strip and sand it off before putting my own sealer on it?
Tom Shafer
Member
NO !!! Not unless you know the history of that old metal. Same story as my 1948 Starlight Coupe.
There was no BONDO In 1948, no resins, no exotic sealers, primers, clear coats, etc, etc.
They used LEAD as metal fillers, ACID-primers, OIL-enamels, lots of elbow-grease !
Any bodyman will tell you NOT to strip away the old finish, unless needed to repair the metal. Today, they use modern sealer-primers, modern acrylic paints, hard-coat glazes that last forever. $600 for materials. OR,,, grab your sander, grind the crap outta it, and your new body-shop estimate is $1800.
I helped restore an old green Sears Game??Fisher that had laid in mud for years. We had it SODA-blasted, which will not harm the metal. No sanding req'd. The painter used a two-part epoxy paint, $$$, (lawn grass green) over the cleaned bottom. The inside was pressure-coated a slate-grey 'rubber-coatng' used by the auto industry. We dryed it with hair-dryers :>)
Note: All work had to be OUTSIDE. You cannot breathe any of that stuff !
Probably the most gentle of abrasive-based blasting methods, and rinses off with water.
All above very good advice!
REALLY good advice! Many body finishes today, both marine and auto, have chemicals in them that can even be absorbed through the skin. Pay VERY close attention to safety precautions on labels or the MSDS.
Roger
I just acquired one of the Vio Holda boats today and would love to pick your brain about the company's history if possible. [email protected] is best way to contact me.
