Tracker 17'L54"W Jon Modification

[dunk50]

Nope no jack plate. I was going for simple and like I said earlier, I don't have enough big water to need top speed. I mounted it high on the transom. It does have tilt and trim and yea I can get into some skinny water, at least more so that my Ranger. With the flat bottom, modified V it does jump on plane pretty quick even fully loaded. Still breaking in the motor though so I don't have numbers yet.

Actually I read somewhere that the cavitation plate should be level with the bottom of the boat. That is where I set it and so far so good! Doing that automatically set it a little high.

 

[Quacker Jacker]

Great looking rig, and great work on the modifications.

I'm looking to add a similar storage extension to the deck on my 18 ft. G3. It is very similar to the tracker front deck. How did you attach your deck extension to the front deck? It looks very smooth and I don't see any hinges, I'm trying to visualize how you attached the hinges, and lid to the rear of the front deck.

Thanks

 

[dunk50]

At this point I am unable to post in more photos. Son has Mac a little screwed up. If you look close it does have piano hinges. i'l try and get this photo thing fixed and post some photos. Thanks for the compliments.

 

[Quacker Jacker]

yea I figured it had piano hinges, just wondering if you connected them directly from the deck to the lid, or did you attach the hinges to a brace that you put on the deck first? Similarly, if your deck extension is made from plywood, did you attach the hinges to the top, bottom, or side (thickness) of the lid?

Thanks

 

[dunk50]

Sorry , gotcha now. I pop riveted directly to the front deck and the lids lay directly on the storage area. Very very sold. I figured the front deck would always be carpeted, at least as long as I have it. In more detail, just below the hinges that are attached to the lids I have another aluminum L channel that is part of the storage box. This way the lid hinges support weight but then the lids when closed are also sitting on the L channel aluminum that is also riveted to the front deck. I still don't have photo capability, sorry.

 

[Quacker Jacker]

Ok, now I think I see. So the piano hinges are attached to the "width" of the plywood lids. ie: they are not attached to the top or to the underside...rather, they are folded in half and attached on one side to the deck and on the other side to the width (bow side) of the plywood lids.

Is there any kind of noticeable gap between the deck and the lids that may let water in? I'm sure there has to be some gap, but I'm guessing it's not the bad.

 

[dunk50]

Yep, sounds like you got it. No gap, carpet on both sides pretty much takes care of that. I am sure water could seep in but it sure won't run in!! The carpet is actually rubber backed so it is one big gasket! :wink: Just Bimini top that I will eventually enclose. Totally removable but at my age a little shade on those long days on the water is great. Also in the cold weather when salmon fishing a little cabin with heat is heaven!

 

[dyeguy1212]

I cant quite wrap my head around this hinge explanation, but if you get around to some close up shots, itd really help me out!

 

[dunk50]

Sorry but photos are going to be a while. I will try it again. First I riveted a piece of 1 1/4 aluminum angle the entire width of the front deck and this was about 1 inch below the lip of the deck. This in effect made a 1 1/4 inch lip sticking out from the front deck about an inch below the lip. I then riveted a piano hinge so that the barrel was just above the front deck and again this was all the way across the deck. The other half of the piano hinge screw directly into the back side of the lid. Without the aluminum angle for the lid to rest on it would have been a very weak point. As is, the weight of the lids is born by the 1 1/4 aluminum angle and the hinge just performs a hinge function. Sorry, best I can do!

 

[TrackerTom]

Really great looking boat. Nice work. It's kind of hard to see in the pics. Which holes are your motor mounted in to get the height you have it set at? I have my 40 mounted in the middle holes and was curious what you did.

 

[dunk50]

Motor has five holes. Mine is mounted in the second hole from the bottom. That actually puts the anti cavitation plate even with the bottom of the boat. Runs real well as long as I have the motor level or tucked in a little with trim at take off. If I have it trimmed up at all I get a LITTLE blowout but not much. Still under break in for the 60 so I have not had it flat out yet.

 

[huntinfool]

Great job! Amazing what a little thinking in advance will allow you to do.

 

[TrackerTom]

Motor has five holes. Mine is mounted in the second hole from the bottom. That actually puts the anti cavitation plate even with the bottom of the boat. Runs real well as long as I have the motor level or tucked in a little with trim at take off. If I have it trimmed up at all I get a LITTLE blowout but not much. Still under break in for the 60 so I have not had it flat out yet.

What a hoot. Mine's in the middle holes and is dead even with the bottom with the cavitation plate parallel with the bottom of the hull. I've wanted to try it up one more hole because the plate still runs under the water when on a plane and I'd like to get it to skim the surface. Do you know where yours runs in relation to the surface when on plane?

Tom

 

[dunk50]

**** I hate it when I am wrong. Didn't want to give you bad information soeee! I just leveled the boat and rechecked. With a 4' level on the bottom of the boat it runs under the cavitation plate exactly 1/4 inch. That is to say the cavitation plate is 1/4 inch above the bottom of the boat. Like I said though, I have not had a problem. I am with you though, would love to have the Merc. Smartcraft gauge package for water pressure , tach etc. Just can't afford it right now. I haven't even been able to find a tach like you found. Sorry if i gave you bad info.