Your Thoughts on 25hp outboard

[crazymanme2]

The older Mercs can have electrical problems but if you get that figured out they run like a top.I have both Johnson & Merc 25 hp & the Merc out beats the Johnson as far as speed.

 

[bigredxlt]

So I found a 25 hp 2 stroke Johnson that supposedly runs great. Now how much should I pay for it?

 

[Boat2fast]

bigredxlt » 07 Feb 2014, 20:43[/url]"]So I found a 25 hp 2 stroke Johnson that supposedly runs great. Now how much should I pay for it?

As little as possible. My first thought is: 'If I can't hear it run, it's worth .15 per lb'. That being said, you look closer. A perfect, beautiful, shiny, clean, low hours, one-owner outboard can be worth $1K-2K.

That one in the picture looks like a 1985. Those are good engines. Have you heard it run? Is the powerhead quiet and free of 'mechanical noise'? Clicks, rattles, ticks, clanks, knocks? Does it idle nice and smooth at a proper low speed? Does it spit or cough at idle? When you rev it up does it ring with slappy pistons?...or sound nice and tight, quiet? Can you take the seller at his word on all this?

Is the paint, on the powerhead itself, nice and clean and shiny? This tells you a lot:

Salt corrosion is evident at the gasket lines. A salt engine is a nightmare to disassemble. If you see salt corrosion outside it's much worse inside.

If the paint is all knocked off the bolts, or if the paint is broken at the gasket lines, the engine has been apart. Professional service?..or amateur hour? The term "rebuilt" can mean anything from "Pro race prep" to "hammer and pliers experiment". Look over all the bolts and screws. If they are all waffled out with tool marks, then the service was not from an experienced mechanic. Look for cut-and-fix in the electrics. Some 'mechanics' like to get out the wire cutters, then crimp and tape it back together.

If the paint is a darker shade(or chalky, burned, flaking) towards the rear of the powerhead, this tells you it got smokin' hot...at least once. If the cylinder head shows red primer(older engines) the topcoat was likely burned off. Sometimes the electrics can even be melted. Beware of owners telling you about the brand new headgasket and water pump they just did.

Dark red/brown stains are from rodents...engine sat a long time. Look for chewed wiring.

Dirty/grimy engine sat around for a long time with the cover off, possibly out in the weather.

Midsection: Look it over. Was it regularly greased? Are the clamp screws good and smooth? Does it tilt well, and steer nice? Any sloppiness, any rusty or frozen parts? It was cared-for or it wasn't.

Lower unit: Before you buy, loosen the lower unit fill plug. Let a drop or two dribble out. If there is water inside it will come out first. If the oil is milky colored, that's water. If it's rusty sludge with shiny particles, then you are buying work to do. Does it shift nice? Linkage feel good? Propshaft turns straight? Good blades etc.

If you are not afforded an opportunity to check thoroughly all these things...then you have to start making assumptions. A seller who is trying to unload an engine with problems is not going to be forthcoming. Sometimes walking away from an engine is best. If you find a gorgeous little gem, sitting in a dry closet, hardly ever used, maybe you make different assumptions.

When I go to look at an outboard for sale, I go with enough to buy on-the-spot, position of strength. Never make an offer unless you're ready to pull the trigger. The question is, always, how much money do you go home with. Passing a questionable deal today sets you up to grab a good deal tomorrow using the same money. They made MILLIONS of outboards. There are LOTS of them out there.

I have made every mistake possible while buying stuff. These are all the thoughts that occur to me when someone says 'How much is it worth?'. Hope it helps you find a good deal.

 

[MDCrappie]

/\ /\ /\ /\ /\
All Excellent advise for anyone buying and outboard. Condense this down to a small index card and use it as a check off list.

But to add a couple. Pick up a cheap compression tester (HF- about $25). Just to make sure the compression is even or close

Remove the spark plugs and compare them to each other. Any "particles" on either-possible problem, One dry one wet - possible problem

When you remove the LU screw get a little oil on your fingers and rub them together to see if you feel any "gritness".

Take a small 1/4" ratchet with 3/8 and 7/16 sockets. Put it on a couple of the exposed bolts and see if they will move at all. (Tighten or loosen) Don't use too much pressure as a corroded bolt could snap. IF you have a feel for working on these engines you can tell when a bolt is going to come out and when it's not.

That being said - depending on your area I would not pay more then about $500-$700 for that engine if everything checks out.
Just last year I picked up a great running '89 25hp with electric start and controls for $650. The seller started out asking $1000.

 

[bigredxlt]

Wow, great advice thanks guys. It is and '83 and the seller is asking $900. Guy claims to have had it for 20 years. Sent me a bunch of pictures with the cover off and it looks clean but Ill look those pictures over again with your advice in mind.

 

[MDCrappie]

bigredxlt » Sat Feb 08, 2014 12:12 pm[/url]"]Wow, great advice thanks guys. It is and '83 and the seller is asking $900. Guy claims to have had it for 20 years. Sent me a bunch of pictures with the cover off and it looks clean but Ill look those pictures over again with your advice in mind.

$900 sounds way too high for an '83. That motor has the smaller lower unit, without thru hub exhaust. Smaller prop selection among other things.

 

[bigredxlt]

Looks really clean on the inside. Unfortunately the seller is a few hrs away so if I want to check it out in person, I'm going to have to make a drive.

 

[bigredxlt]

MDCrappie » 08 Feb 2014, 13:28[/url]"]

bigredxlt » Sat Feb 08, 2014 12:12 pm[/url]"]Wow, great advice thanks guys. It is and '83 and the seller is asking $900. Guy claims to have had it for 20 years. Sent me a bunch of pictures with the cover off and it looks clean but Ill look those pictures over again with your advice in mind.

$900 sounds way too high for an '83. That motor has the smaller lower unit, without thru hub exhaust. Smaller prop selection among other things.

I was thinking $900 was way too expensive as well. I am not familiar with outboards, could you explain what you mean about the smaller lower unit, no thru hub exhaust and small prop selection?

 

[MDCrappie]

Here is the '83 LU
https://www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP/JOHNSON/1983/J25ECTD/GEARCASE/parts.html

Here is the '86 LU
https://www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP/JOHNSON/1986/J25ECDR/GEARCASE/parts.html

In 1985 the O/B's went from being rated at the power head to being rated at the Prop. I want to say there is about a 10-15% reduction in HP between the power head and prop. (If memory serves me right). This would mean that your 1982 25hp is only putting out about 21-22.5hp (at the prop)

With readily available props:

Pitches for the '82 run from about 9-12"

Pitches for the '85 and up run from about 9-15"

 

[DanMC]

For dependability I would only look at Honda !.....Yamaha it's also good !....just my .2¢

 

[MDCrappie]

DanMC » Sun Feb 09, 2014 9:34 am[/url]"]For dependability I would only look at Honda !.....Yamaha it's also good !....just my .2¢

Yeah, to Heck with all these 20-30 year old OMC 2 cylinder motors. Go out and buy a vintage 80's yamaha........or Honda....plenty of them still around, right?