1993 Evinrude 15HP

Anybody know of any issues with this motor?

I have a 1989 15 hp Evinrude that runs great, no problems. I don't know if the motors are exactly the same though.

I think 93 is the fist year of a production change.

I have a 1997 15 HP and have not had any problems with it

Ok you guy's are not going to belive this but I traded a 60's model 9.5 for this motor tonight! A few days ago I answered an add looking to trade for a 9.9 to 20 Hp for this simi-running 93 -15hp Evinrude with broken pull start. After a few emails I call the guy and he tells me that when he got it it ran good but all of a sudden it quit he put a new coil on and that is when the pull start broke he thinks the float is sticking also. So I tell him I might be willing to trade a 1975 9.9 thinking he would laugh at me but he says sure if its running. So yesterday evening we get to meet and I decided to through the 9.5 in the truck also. Well the 15 looks descent so I pull the pull start off and check compression which was not easy as there is no pull rope groove on this motor but with three pulls I was looking at about 112-115 on each cylinder. So next is spark........no spark! I start looking an there are what looks like mouse chewed on wires coming out of the power pack and several spors with fresh looking electrical tape. At this point I am ready to walk away and tell the guy so. He then tells me he is willing to add cash to the deal and he hasn't even looked at my motors yet. So I tell him I am not willing to let go of the 9.9 but may on the 9.5 he then asked how much extra cash I wanted. I was really floored and wondering what is really wrong with this motor but figure what the heck and tell him, no cash even swap. Done deal.
Make it home and tear into it! The pull cord was an easy fix, just set and rewind the coil spring. Then I start pulling all the electrical tape. Three if the wires coming out from under the fly wheel where slightly melted in one small spot but all were tapped to gather so able to short each other out. Fixed this and all bare spots then tried....dang still no fire!!!! That is when I look down at the tiller handle and notice a red button! Holly Cow! This thing has an emergency kill with no clip installed. Head out to the boat where I keep my extra clip and pop it on. Pull the cord one time and not only is there spark but she fires through the spark tester and runs for a second. So at this point I am stoked! I swap to the bottom cylinder to test for fire and.........none back to the top and none! So now I am scratching my head. About this time the wife makes it home and I am showing her what I feel is a diamond in the rough explaining what I have done so far and what is happening showing her the wires that I fixed and that is when I find the ground to the emergency kill laying in the bottom around the motor. When the PO changed the coil he didn't put it back. So I fix that real quick and just want to try it. She fired right up and ran great at anything above half throttle and like I have said before these little motors run great on one cylinder. After about another hour of checking testing and fiddling I have determined that the power pack is bad or half bad and only sending fire to the top cylinder.

Here are the two pictures he sent me. Will take some better ones later.

Good deal. You know what they say some people fall in it and come out smelling like a rose

Well we will see. Waiting on the power pack to ship with fingers crossed. If that doses it I will then go ahead and put a water pump kit in and more than likely a carb kit also.

Awesome deal! This motor has way more value and utility than a 9.5. I'm sure once you make sure it has air fuel and spark, it'll run great. Well done!

Thanks I think it was a pretty good deal also.

Well the power pack came in today put it on and man is this thing responsive! I really like the cable throttle over geared tooth throttle.

Ok now to my next question.
The prop that is on this motor is a 9.5X12.5 and it had one blade curled a bit. I believe the motor has been setting or dropped on this blade it just didn't look like a prop strike to me. Also it is missing the flared part at the exhaust side. I have carefully tapped the curl out but even though no one else in the house can tell which blade was bent I can! How critical is it to have the blades perfect and is the missing flare at the exhaust critical? I also did check the shaft and it is not bent.

I do have a like new 9.25X10 (black one) and an older 9.5X10 (white one) prop off my other motors but not sure what the performance difference would be.

Here is a couple pictures of the props. The one with the paint missing is what came off this motor.

And the bottoms.

I put it in the water today and no vibration so I think I am good with the prop.

But have another problem.

When I put it in the water it I cranked right up no problems. Great idle in and out of gear. After running to our fishing spot it was a pain in the darryair to start back up and it want to die when I first kick it in gear but once it gets going it will run smooth at all rpm setting. The kill is not working so I do have to pull the choke to kill it. At low throttle a quick out & in kills it.

Any ideals?

Ramrod, do you have an owner's manual for your motor to check the proper way to kill the motor? My motor(seen in my avatar) is an '57 Evinrude 18hp and in the instructions it says to kill the motor when stopping or docking to pull the choke out. It might be that you will have to do that but I would try to find someone that really knows that motor and give you some more info. As long as it does the primary function of the motor what difference does it make.
Good luck, from BrazosDon

No I do not have an owners manual just got this motor on a trade it has an emergency kill switch with clip that is not working. I thought it was working before I put the new used power pack on. Any how I could care less about how to kill it the problem is starting it back up. When I got home and put it in the tank it cranked on the second pull. On the river after a run and after I killed it by a quick choke pull it would take 10-15 pulls to get it back started. It also doesn't have the carb silencer. Dose anyone think adding the silencer would help? I am going order it anyway.

If it runs at all I think your power pack is fine. I would make sure the kill switch is fixed, this is a common fault.

It may be when you pull the choke that is causing your problem. Can you turn your idle speed low enough so that the motor will kill? Maybe try this

Thanks for the ideals! I will try to keep checking back in but for now all is on hold. I am getting ready to head out if the country for 37-40 days for work. Happy boating and trouble shooting!

Ok came in yesterday and the jet-lag is still killing me! My carb silencer was in so I went ahead and put the motor on the boat with muffs cranked it up let it get warm then killed it with the choke. It took several pulls to start back up. So I un screwed the kill from the tiller and sure enough one wire was parted. With that fixed and back together I then pulled the pull rope assembly and installed the new to me carb silencer. Cranked it up and killed it several times with the kill switch. Started on the first pull every time. Going to put it on the river in the morning and see how she does.

plastic carb top. it may be cracked. i have seen this many times. the only bad thing about the later year motors is the carb kinda sucks. look on eflay for a 9.9 or 15 metal carb. imho this is the way to go.
dino

Ran great heading to the hole ran good checking the noodle the all of a sudden it became hard to start again. As much as I like how this motor performs when running this boat is for the wife will have to figure something else out.