14' MirroCraft Project

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Either you are looking at using the new cables like a Teleflex rotary cable, which is just 1 big cable in a tube that feeds on one end to a helm and steering wheel and on the other attatches through the tilt tube to the outboard, or you are looking at replacing the existing old style cable and pulley system with some new cables and new pulleys. I think from the pics you do not have a tilt tube, which would complicate using the new teleflex style cable somewhat, so you might ought to do as you were advised and take it to a dealership, let them see about getting some new pulleys and cables. As I understand it the old cable and pulley systems worked just fine, I think they just got in the way a little and they were complicated to assemble compared to what we have now.
 
Thanks FW and WTL. I think I'll just stay with the current pulley and cable system. I've found some reasonable pricing on new cabling and pulleys, so that shouldn't be any problem.

FW, I plan on just leaving the console where it is.

Thanks again guys, I really appreciate it. Tomorrow I plan on removing the motors stripping the seats out, and starting the pre-paint prep work. I've also got to sandblast the trailer to get it ready for paint as well.

I was lucky enough to score some aluminum channel and square tubing free of charge, so now I don't have to worry with buying and sealing 2 x 2's for the support structure.

Mark
 
For sake of completeness, here are a couple pics of the cable and pulley system:

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All of this stuff was removed this weekend. I also got around to removing the seats. I think capital punishment is in order for anyone who mounts bench seats with carbon steel carriage bolts, or slotted head bolts for that matter. I ended up having to grind the heads off most of the seat bolts to remove them. ](*,)

Each of the bench seats are filled with styrofoam, and between the foam and the bench top are three 1 x 3's running the length of the seat. Of course all those 1 x 3's are rotted in a 42 year old boat, so I don't know if I'll dig out the styrofoam and replace the wood or just build up new benches as part of the mods. The old benches were going to be used for structure only, so I may just scavenge the foam and use it in new structure.

In the first pic above, you can seat that the top portion of the transom is a 2 x 4 aluminum "channel". I fear that the wood in this channel is rotted also. I can put a finger in each end of the channel and the wood is crumbling. I think I can remove all the through bolts from the channel, and the corner gussets from the gunnels, and it will come close to lifting off. Close, except for the bit of aluminum that is bent over the channel as you can see in the middle left of the first picture.

Anyone have any experience replacing the wood in a similar transom configuration?

Thanks,

Mark
 
I had a bit of spare time this afternoon, so I decided to pull the transom and check out the wood. Here is what I found:

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Just a simple pine 2 x 4 in there. The channel is 4 1/2" wide, but I guess someone thought 3 1/2" was close enough.

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As you can see, the middle isn't too bad but each end is shot. I'm glad I decided to pull that sucker out!

I'm considering replacing it with two pieces of 3/4 x 4 1/2 plywood, laminated together to give the required 1 1/2 x 4 1/2 cross section. I'd appreciate any additional thoughts anyone might have.

Mark
 
OK guys, I need a little advice on determine what "level" should be. Here's a rough sketch of the bow:

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As you hopefully can ascertain, I plan on putting a small deck at the bow for a trolling motor with storage underneath. Then I'll add a casting deck lower down.

Question 1. Would it be advisable to level everything with reference to the gunnels? The current seat brackets were installed by a previous owner, and I've shown were the original bracket was riveted. I'm not sure that even using the original seat brackets would be a good reference, but should I be okay referencing everything to the gunnels?

Question 2. What's your opinion on the casting deck being about 11" below the gunnels? Should I raise it up a bit? It will probably travel farther back towards the stern than I've depicted it, perhaps as far back as the console.

Question 3. The bow deck is planned to go just as far back as the bow seat brackets, which gives me a deck approximately 24" in length. Is this long enough, or should I consider lengthening it?

Thanks,

Mark
 
I think what you have there will be fine. Level to the top of the boat will be best - hopefully that is level to something for you
 
esquired said:
I think what you have there will be fine. Level to the top of the boat will be best - hopefully that is level to something for you

Thanks esquired! Would this be considered free legal advice? :wink:
 
Mossy535 said:
esquired said:
I think what you have there will be fine. Level to the top of the boat will be best - hopefully that is level to something for you

Thanks esquired! Would this be considered free legal advice? :wink:

WHAT? FREE?????



That hurts - it really, really hurts
 
All stripped down and a blank canvas; ready for the artist (or hack) to get started:

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First up, replacing the old transom wood (foreground) with the new transom wood (background):

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Well, I'm into stripping the paint. I've just done a few small areas so far, but that Klean-Strip Low Odor Aircraft Remover is some great stuff:

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I've got to get busy, as my Bass Pro carpet kit arrived today! I've also got my Advantage Max 4 camo seats setting in the garage just waiting to get mounted. Now I need to get serious about ordering all the cables and pulleys for the steering, plus a new steering wheel.

So much to do, so little free time!
 
Hey guys, I need a little info if some of you could be so kind.

The boat didn't originally have a floor, so now that I'm adding one and replacing the bench seats with folding seats I'm in need of some measurements for the steering console and driver's seat.

Assuming a "bass boat" configuration, what are the:

1. Typical distance from floor to top of driver's seat cushion.

2. Typical distance from floor to center of steering wheel for a side console.

I know these will vary by boat manufacturer, but I have no general numbers to go by.

Thanks!

Mark
 
How 'bout sloshin' some Thompsons Water Seal on that transom board?
...Lemme pull up a chair so I can watch your build... :D

~LCA.
 
Mossy535 said:
Hey guys, I need a little info if some of you could be so kind.

The boat didn't originally have a floor, so now that I'm adding one and replacing the bench seats with folding seats I'm in need of some measurements for the steering console and driver's seat.

Assuming a "bass boat" configuration, what are the:

1. Typical distance from floor to top of driver's seat cushion.

2. Typical distance from floor to center of steering wheel for a side console.

I know these will vary by boat manufacturer, but I have no general numbers to go by.

Thanks!

Mark


1, On my G3 it was about 12 inches

2, On my G3 it was about 20-24 inches I'm trying to remember off the top of my head
 
LeftCoastAngler said:
How 'bout sloshin' some Thompsons Water Seal on that transom board?
...Lemme pull up a chair so I can watch your build... :D

~LCA.

No Thompson's Water Seal, but I did put four coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane on her! :D

Please do pull up a chair and watch. She's down to bare aluminum now so hopefully things will start moving pretty fast. Still have to prime, paint, install deck supports, install and carpet decks and wire everything up.
 
Jim said:
Mossy535 said:
1. Typical distance from floor to top of driver's seat cushion.

2. Typical distance from floor to center of steering wheel for a side console.


1, On my G3 it was about 12 inches

2, On my G3 it was about 20-24 inches I'm trying to remember off the top of my head

Thanks Jim, much appreciated!

Mark
 
Making a little progress. Hopefully the pace will be picking up a bit now.

Here she is with the new transom installed and the interior primed:

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