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14' MirroCraft Project
- Thread starter Mossy535
- Start date
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LeftCoastAngler
Well-known member
mmmmmm. primer.
~LCA.
~LCA.
Mossy535
Well-known member
OK, got the boat turned upside down on sawhorses so I can tackle the bottom.
First question, why do I have a hole in my keel runner? There's a 3/16" hole in the keel runner at the stern. I'm assuming it's for drainage, but what do I know ...
First question, why do I have a hole in my keel runner? There's a 3/16" hole in the keel runner at the stern. I'm assuming it's for drainage, but what do I know ...
Popeye
Well-known member
As the Keel runner is attached with rivits and thusly not water tight it will allow water in. Also as it is "U" shaped it will hold the water unless there is a drainage port. That's what you have there.
Mossy535
Well-known member
Thanks Andy for confirming my suspicions.
Now for the trailer ...
I'm not really happy with the lack of support/guidance between the bunks and the front "V" support. The lack of intermediate support allows the keel to bump the center member as the boat travels on/off the trailer.
I'd appreciate any suggestions the membership might have for improvements to the trailer as it currently exists.
Thanks,
Mark
Now for the trailer ...
I'm not really happy with the lack of support/guidance between the bunks and the front "V" support. The lack of intermediate support allows the keel to bump the center member as the boat travels on/off the trailer.
I'd appreciate any suggestions the membership might have for improvements to the trailer as it currently exists.
Thanks,
Mark
Quackrstackr
Well-known member
That's a fairly standard setup for a trailer. You could lengthen the bunks toward the front or install another V or roller between the bunks and the existing V. The addition of a roller off of the winch post may help you as well.
The trailer under my big boat has no bottom support except the rear bunks and the V roller on the winch post that mates to the bow. No problems whatsoever.
I will say that your bunks look like they are mounted straight to the frame without any standoff. Both of my trailers' bunks have adjustable standoff and sit higher off of the frame than yours.
The trailer under my big boat has no bottom support except the rear bunks and the V roller on the winch post that mates to the bow. No problems whatsoever.
I will say that your bunks look like they are mounted straight to the frame without any standoff. Both of my trailers' bunks have adjustable standoff and sit higher off of the frame than yours.
Mossy535
Well-known member
Thanks Quackrstackr. This project is my first boating "experience", so I'm learning as I go.
Regarding standoff, could you elaborate a bit on what you mean by that?
Here's a rear view of the trailer, in case that helps.
BTW, I took her all apart last night. Time for new wheel bearings, bunks and carpet, and a good sandblast and paint job!
Mark
Regarding standoff, could you elaborate a bit on what you mean by that?
Here's a rear view of the trailer, in case that helps.
BTW, I took her all apart last night. Time for new wheel bearings, bunks and carpet, and a good sandblast and paint job!
Mark
Quackrstackr
Well-known member
Your bunks are mounted directly to the tube frame. Most trailers have them on some sort of bracket that are height adjustable. On my 1448 they are a U shaped clamp (like the ones holding the backbone of your trailer to the subframe) holding a solid post that is mounted to the bunk. You can loosen the U to slide the post up and down for adjustment.
I can't honestly say that I have paid any attention to my new boat's trailer to tell you what they are but I'm sure they are adjustable as well. All of my previous boat trailers have been.
If your bunks were higher, you could solve the problem of your hull striking your frame (I would think).
I would put some PVC pipe over your side guides and have a washer welded to the top so that your boat isn't sliding metal to metal when you load it. I had this done to my 1448's trailer and it works great. My tail lights are mounted to the top of them too.
I would also have some diagonals welded in between that square frame and the pipe backbone up toward the front. That setup doesn't look particularly rigid and has to be depending on the hull of your boat to help strengthen it during trailering. Not a good thing.
I can't honestly say that I have paid any attention to my new boat's trailer to tell you what they are but I'm sure they are adjustable as well. All of my previous boat trailers have been.
If your bunks were higher, you could solve the problem of your hull striking your frame (I would think).
I would put some PVC pipe over your side guides and have a washer welded to the top so that your boat isn't sliding metal to metal when you load it. I had this done to my 1448's trailer and it works great. My tail lights are mounted to the top of them too.
I would also have some diagonals welded in between that square frame and the pipe backbone up toward the front. That setup doesn't look particularly rigid and has to be depending on the hull of your boat to help strengthen it during trailering. Not a good thing.
Mossy535
Well-known member
Exterior hull is done:
Now I have to finish refurbing the trailer so I have somewhere to put the boat while I mod her. The trailer is completely stripped and I've got the axle sandblasted, primed and painted. I've also got the hubs painted and refurbed including new bearings, races and seals to replace the junk I pulled out. I'm still amazed I got the setup home without completely seizing both wheels! I also have a nice new set of tires and wheels. But first I've got to sandblast, prime and paint the rest of the trailer.
Now I have to finish refurbing the trailer so I have somewhere to put the boat while I mod her. The trailer is completely stripped and I've got the axle sandblasted, primed and painted. I've also got the hubs painted and refurbed including new bearings, races and seals to replace the junk I pulled out. I'm still amazed I got the setup home without completely seizing both wheels! I also have a nice new set of tires and wheels. But first I've got to sandblast, prime and paint the rest of the trailer.
Popeye
Well-known member
Looks good, except for that small spot you missed :lol:
Mossy535
Well-known member
flounderhead59 said:
I thought it was bad luck to completely cover the previous paint job, unless you are eating a banana and whistling while painting? [-X
Mark
Mossy535
Well-known member
Here's my planned layout. I'd appreciate any comments/suggestions from the peanut gallery, er, I mean members. 
https://tinboats.net/forum/images/albums/userpics/Layout_Annotated.pdf
The circles just show the envelopes of the seat corners as they swivel around.
Since I don't tournament fish, I think I'll forgo adding a livewell. I'll just throw the keepers on ice in the cooler.
The two fixed seats will be hinge mounted on top of "boxes" for storage.
I would have liked a rod/gun storage box that ran bow to stern, but on this 53" wide 14 footer I think I'll really be cramped for space if I try that, especially since the sides run vertically and are not "flared" like many flat-bottom jons. And all my rods are two piece and 53" should be plenty long enough for my shotguns come duck season.
Thanks for any and all commentary,
Mark
https://tinboats.net/forum/images/albums/userpics/Layout_Annotated.pdf
The circles just show the envelopes of the seat corners as they swivel around.
Since I don't tournament fish, I think I'll forgo adding a livewell. I'll just throw the keepers on ice in the cooler.
The two fixed seats will be hinge mounted on top of "boxes" for storage.
I would have liked a rod/gun storage box that ran bow to stern, but on this 53" wide 14 footer I think I'll really be cramped for space if I try that, especially since the sides run vertically and are not "flared" like many flat-bottom jons. And all my rods are two piece and 53" should be plenty long enough for my shotguns come duck season.
Thanks for any and all commentary,
Mark
Waterwings
Well-known member
Mossy535 said:
Only if you're on the water, lol
Floor plan looks good! If there's a Lowe boat dealer close to you they can order you a 60" storage/gun box (and they're lockable). Vertical sides shouldn't matter as far as fitting.
Mossy535
Well-known member
Slowly making progress. I've got new wheel bearings, wheels and tires on the freshly-painted trailer and now I'm preparing to carpet the bunks and install the trailer lights. Heres how I'm mounting the tail lights:
I'm mounting them on top of the side posts per Quackrstackr's suggestion. I'm using the PVC components shown below, and riveting an aluminum L bracket to the PVC cap:
Here's a close up of the left tail light:
And here's a closeup of it's mounting bracket:
I'm mounting them on top of the side posts per Quackrstackr's suggestion. I'm using the PVC components shown below, and riveting an aluminum L bracket to the PVC cap:
Here's a close up of the left tail light:
And here's a closeup of it's mounting bracket:
Paint looks good! In the 2nd pic of the trailer, it looks as if the center member of the trailer has a slight downward bow in it, but doesn't in the 1st, probably just an optical illusion? Still, wouldn't hurt to tie it into the square frame of the trailer like --<[]
it might be flexing while trailering, and adding weight will only compound it.
ST
it might be flexing while trailering, and adding weight will only compound it.
ST
dedawg1149
Well-known member
looking good nice job
Waterwings
Well-known member
Looks good! 8)
Popeye
Well-known member
Looking good...'cept it's crooked :lol: :lol:
Mossy535
Well-known member
OK, time to start framing for the deck. First, let's get a good look at what we've got to work with:
Given the construction of the boat, I'm wondering if I need to tie the decks into the sides or not? I'm planning on putting a 4 ft. deck on the bow at about the level of where the curved bottom meets the straight sides. At the rear, I'll have a 3-4 ft. deck even with the gunnels or perhaps just a bit below.
For the left and right seats near the steering console, I'm thinking about putting the seats on a bench with storage underneath. Again, I'm wondering how necessary it is to tie everything into the sides of the boat?
Next question, is there any issue gluing carpet over plywood coated with Thompson's? I've got a gallon lying around, and it would be nice to use it versus buying enough spar urethane to coat everything.
Thanks in advance for your comments!
Mark
Given the construction of the boat, I'm wondering if I need to tie the decks into the sides or not? I'm planning on putting a 4 ft. deck on the bow at about the level of where the curved bottom meets the straight sides. At the rear, I'll have a 3-4 ft. deck even with the gunnels or perhaps just a bit below.
For the left and right seats near the steering console, I'm thinking about putting the seats on a bench with storage underneath. Again, I'm wondering how necessary it is to tie everything into the sides of the boat?
Next question, is there any issue gluing carpet over plywood coated with Thompson's? I've got a gallon lying around, and it would be nice to use it versus buying enough spar urethane to coat everything.
Thanks in advance for your comments!
Mark
hcsdchief
Active member
I used to much thompson's on my plywood and it made it pretty oily and the carpet didn't want to stick to the wood.
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