Driveshaft stuck in powerhead

[ClemsonAlum]

Has anyone tried using a clamp collar and slide hammer to pull out a stuck driveshaft in a powerhead? I got the foot off, now just need to pull the shaft out. I have turned the motor upside down and spayed in Deep Creep. May need 2 or 3 collars placed together for extra support?

-Kurt
1436 PolarKraft & 9.5 Evinrude

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

What motor? Why do you want to remove it? Are you sure there isn't anything else holding it in? I would consult a manual before hammering on it.

 

[ClemsonAlum]

It is a 9.5 HP Evinrude, 1969. It is almost impossible to put a new impeller back in and reassemble with it in the powerhead. I already partially damaged the impeller housing while trying to get it back on. I am positive it due to some amount of corrosion.

-Kurt
1436 PolarKraft & 9.5 Evinrude

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

If it is corrosion, then maybe try turning it upside down & putting in some penetrating oil, I use auto trans fluid + acetone 50/50, works good.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

It is a 9.5 HP Evinrude, 1969. It is almost impossible to put a new impeller back in and reassemble with it in the powerhead. I already partially damaged the impeller housing while trying to get it back on. I am positive it due to some amount of corrosion.

-Kurt
1436 PolarKraft & 9.5 Evinrude

I just went through this this year with a friends motor.

I made a custom puller to remove the shaft, let me see if I can find it.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

I found it!

Nothing fancy but its yours if you want it.

Just pay shipping.

 

[maintenanceguy]

Clamp collars like your photo are used all the time to pull shafts.

The power head is probably robust enough to survive the pulling but...I would look at how difficult it would be to remove the lower cowl or whatever is required to get access to the shaft splines and socket where it's stuck. I would very much prefer my pulling force to work against the shoulder of the splinned socket. Yanking on the shaft can break something. Actually pushing the shaft away from the splined socket is less likely to damage anything.

 

[ClemsonAlum]

I found it!

Nothing fancy but its yours if you want it.

Just pay shipping.

If I can't get it out with a slide hammer and puller later this week, I will take you up on that. Thanks!

-Kurt
1436 PolarKraft & 9.5 Evinrude

 

[ClemsonAlum]

Clamp collars like your photo are used all the time to pull shafts.

The power head is probably robust enough to survive the pulling but...I would look at how difficult it would be to remove the lower cowl or whatever is required to get access to the shaft splines and socket where it's stuck. I would very much prefer my pulling force to work against the shoulder of the splinned socket. Yanking on the shaft can break something. Actually pushing the shaft away from the splined socket is less likely to damage anything.

Thanks for the tip. I found another website post where a guy had the same problem on the same motor. I believe on these 9.5's, pulling the powerhead means essentially taking apart the entire motor. I could do it, but would rather not if at all possible.

http://johnsonevenrude95.blogspot.com/2016/06/1973-johnson-9

-Kurt
1436 PolarKraft & 9.5 Evinrude

 

[Pappy]

The puller shown is an excellent puller for shaft removal.
You may need to replace the shaft after removal so be looking for one. Also take as good a look at the internal splines on the crank the best you can. If damaged the engine is toast.
I would put some tension on the shaft then use an air hammer on the shaft if the puller doesn't get it right away.

 

[ClemsonAlum]

Update: Success! Got it out. Driveshaft splines seem ok. Used two 14 mm dia 2 piece shaft collars and slide hammer w/puller. Only took maybe 10 mins once I had the collars on and puller tool put together. If I could do it again, I would have bought one of the double wide couplers, or used 4 of them stacked side by side. Had to put the two collars back on the shaft twice from slipping, even after cleaning all surfaces with alcohol. I think this is the best way to do this with least risk to damage the shaft. I rented the puller for free with a deposit from Oreily Auto.

I also boogered up the water pump housing removing the lower unit, so I tried a fix with JB weld and a dremel. Tommorrow will be her test run with a new impeller, lower unit oil, a replacement coil and points cleaned and reset. Added 2 oz / gal Seafoam Marine Pro to the fuel for extra lubage since this motor was partially locked up when I got it.

Side note, I called Seafoam to ask if it would dissolve the shellac on the cork float, and they said no. Seafoam Marine Pro is basically concentrated Seafoam without the Alcohol.

Maybe this will help someone else in the future.

-Kurt
1436 PolarKraft & 9.5 Evinrude

 

[Pappy]

Hopefully you did grease the heck out of the splines on the shaft and add the o-ring that was no doubt not there?

 

[ClemsonAlum]

Hopefully you did grease the heck out of the splines on the shaft and add the o-ring that was no doubt not there?

There was acually an O ring on the shaft to my surprise. Had some minor pitting on it. I tried to get as much grease in there as possible by gooping it up on the shaft end and shoving it into the powerhead a few times before re assembly. Put a new o ring back on.

-Kurt
1436 PolarKraft & 9.5 Evinrude

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Good work!

Imo that nick isn’t a big deal. The one I did this summer had all the same issues and pumped fine once running again.

Pumping water was about all it did right. #-o