Indiana Jet Jon Build

[He Reigns]

Good thinking, I lifted mine in and out about 40 times to get everything right.

 

[JJ36]

Going to start fiberglassing today. I've never done it before. Any hints or tricks I should know?

 

[painlesstom]

Have plenty of paint brushes on hand, or lacquer thinner to clean them out, and have all your fiberglass cloth pieces cut to size and ready to use. Use a tad less hardener than the instructions recommend, with it being warm this will give you some extra time to work with the resin. Also recommend wearing latex gloves, easier to change them than to get that mess off your hands. Also make sure the surfaces are clean and roughed up so the resin will adhere properly. Have fun!

 

[JJ36]

Thanks tom.

Just started with spraying spray foam in the voids. After it hardens I'll shave it down to the shape I want the fiberglass to be. I've learned the hard way you just need to walk away and let that stuff harden or you'll have a big mess trimming it.

I have some holes in the aluminum from screws and such. Have any of you guys tried this stuff.

 

[PSG-1]

JJ36 » 23 minutes ago[/url]"]Thanks tom.

Just started with spraying spray foam in the voids. After it hardens I'll shave it down to the shape I want the fiberglass to be. I've learned the hard way you just need to walk away and let that stuff harden or you'll have a big mess trimming it.


One other thing you may or may not have learned the hard way, don't get that spray foam on your hands, or you will have to wear it off. :shock:
I haven't seen any solvents that easily remove it.

Tom is absolutely right about using less hardener in the fiberglass. And not just to extend working time, but, also because if it cures too quickly, it becomes brittle. A slow cure is stronger.

 

[bobberboy]

I uses a round rail that's normally used for barn doors with a 600 lb capacity

Then i took a harbor freight 440/880 lb electric winch and removed the brackets and installed the roller wheels on the steel housing. And boom a movable electric hoist. I plan on taking a retractable extension cord and mounting it at the one end and remove the brake so it moves freely. Also want to develop a locking system so it stays in one place when I need it to. But all in all it will work well I think.

What a good idea. And, do I see a DMC in your garage?

 

[JJ36]

bobberboy » 29 Jun 2014, 06:52[/url]"]I uses a round rail that's normally used for barn doors with a 600 lb capacity

Then i took a harbor freight 440/880 lb electric winch and removed the brackets and installed the roller wheels on the steel housing. And boom a movable electric hoist. I plan on taking a retractable extension cord and mounting it at the one end and remove the brake so it moves freely. Also want to develop a locking system so it stays in one place when I need it to. But all in all it will work well I think.

What a good idea. And, do I see a DMC in your garage?

Ya that's my 1981 DMC 12. Very fun to drive.

 

[bulldog]

Your build looks a lot like my budget jet jon. The build thread is in my signature. Looks great so far.

This brazing rods are awesome. I did not use that particular brand but the ones I used worked absolutely awesome. Here is a link.
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17096&p=235082&hilit=Durafix#p235082

Great job so far and I'll be following this one for sure.

 

[JJ36]

Its been a while but here is my progress
Fiberglassed the pump




Painted

Mocked up

 

[Ranchero50]

The bottom looks really good, really interested in hearing how it performs.

I'm not too sure about running with the tank so far forward. The Mikuni's fuel pump is just a simple diaphragm setup like your weed eater uses and that's a long run to suck fuel through.

 

[JJ36]

I was thinking about that. Had a question on how the fuel pump come into play. It that hockey puck shaped thing with 3 hoses off of it.

 

[JJ36]

OK so had some more time this weekend to fab up the controls. I modified a 90's reverse bracket to work on a 90 deg angle and mounted it under the seat. I also fabbed up a steering lever. It turned out good for just being random hardware parts. I use nylon washers in either side of the lever to get a nice smooth action. I was thinking os adding spring so it would auto center when released. So then I got to the electrical portion. The guy before me just hacked this up to try to bypass the dead man switch. So what I did was returned it back to normal. The I sawped out the dead man switch for a keyed switch. I am mounting it on the electrical box so I can use a key to protect the boat from just anyone starting it. I also switched the kill switch out with a protected on off switch. I mounted them both next to the reverser lever on the seat. Its looking like I'll finish this weekend minus the decks I'd like to add front and rear.

 

[smackdaddy53]

Looking great! I like the simplicity.

 

[JJ36]

OK so its no longer an Indiana Jet Jon. About a year ago I was was relocated for work. Now in in South East Michigan. Just started working on the beast again. It's not easy picking up a project you left off from a year ago. Lol. So i got all the hacked up wiring figured out. I think. Was working on getting it started. I have fuel, 120 compression, spark and air. Still wont even kick. I've rebuild a handful of rotax motors but they all ran before I got them. This one on the other hand was a mess. Any suggestions on what I'm missing?

 

[amk]

Did you spray some starting fluid in it? I know it's tuff on engines but you might need it to wake it up.

 

[PSG-1]

I wouldn't use starting fluid, as mentioned, ether is hard on an engine. Just pour about 1/2 a bottle cap of gasoline in each cylinder, and try it like that.

 

[JJ36]

I tried that. Not even a blurp. Starting worry that I messed up the wiring or maybe the timing when I pieced it together.

 

[Capt1972]

kill switch?

 

[PSG-1]

I was wondering the same thing. If the tether is in place, it could be that the kill switch circuit is improperly wired, and it's cancelling out the stator/magneto? On a typical PWC kill switch circuit there should be 4 wires. 2 are normally open contacts, and 2 are normally closed. The closed contacts complete the circuit for the magneto as long as the circuit is closed....while the 2 normally open contacts will interrupt the circuit between the magneto and the coils if this circuit is suddenly closed, as in the kill switch being off.

While tracking down electrical problems can be a real turd hunt and a PITA, your service manual and a multimeter are your best friends.

 

[mphelle]

I wouldn't think it's the kill circuit since he says he has spark. In the first post there is evidence of a flooded engine compartment, if the motor hydro locked it may have sheared the flywheel key, throwing off the timing. If you haven't mounted the rear bench it would be pretty easy to check. Here is another thread on the key: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=83&t=37665&start=60