Starting on 1027 Flat Bottom Jon(large pics)update 10/20/08

[ben2go]

Today my youngest son and I started on the deconstruction of my 1027 Jon boat.It took 3 months to get my new HIN,title and registration.I have a lengthy post about this if you need a HIN or title.DNR registered the boat as 1971 Jon.My plans are fresh paint,replace the bench seats,install a floor,install a small forward deck for trolling motor and battery.I have a Minn Kota 3HP trolling motor and a Gamefisher 5hp outboard.Both are currently in my shop for repairs.The plan is to install new fold down seats,rod holders and new transom.Here's some of the pics with descriptions.

Here's what I started with.

I left the boat at a farm I use to work at for a few years.Some kids used it and cracked the benches so they reenforced it with angle iron.Didn't work.I can't even sit in the seats and niether can my youngest son.

The reason for the new HIN was the rotting transom and weathered data plate.

Old fiberglass seats oxidize over time.This can get on your clothes and onto your truck seats.It can ruin some fabrics.

I will have to remove the benches because they are split and I can't reach under the benches to unbolt the swivel bases.I'd probably do more damage to the benches if I tried to unbolt them.The bolts are just as rusty.It was suggested to use an angle grinder on the bolts.There isn't room to get to them.

Stay tuned.
I am posting the second half right after this.

REVISION
Here's a link to my build album.There is a lot more pics there with descriptions.
https://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/1027%20Jon%20Boat/

 

[Waterwings]

If you're going to remove and trash the old seats, take the grinder (wear eye/face protection!) and grind the seat off around the swivel mount. Then you should be able to get to the brackets/mounts to grind the rusted heads off of the bolts. Replace all hardware (bolts/nuts) with stainless installing the new items.

 

[ben2go]

Deconstruction time.

Transom fell out while moving the boat.

My youngest son ripping out the old carpet.

The old glue and backing is going to be a pain in the back to get out.I am leaving the oar lock brackets.I have a special use for them.Stay tuned for updates on that.

A whopping 27 and 1/4 inches wide across the bottom.

That's all we got done before dark.I did fill the boat with water to check for leaky rivets.Surprizingly,there were no leaks.Stay tuned there should be a few more updates over the next few days.

 

[ben2go]

If you're going to remove and trash the old seats, take the grinder (wear eye/face protection!) and grind the seat off around the swivel mount. Then you should be able to get to the brackets/mounts to grind the rusted heads off of the bolts. Replace all hardware (bolts/nuts) with stainless installing the new items.

The original benches are split and need to be replaced so I am drilling all the rivets and taking out the bench with the seats and swivels.I have an idea for replacing the bench seats and stiffing the hull in one shot.I'm also adding some corner bracing.

 

[Waterwings]

If you're going to remove and trash the old seats, take the grinder (wear eye/face protection!) and grind the seat off around the swivel mount. Then you should be able to get to the brackets/mounts to grind the rusted heads off of the bolts. Replace all hardware (bolts/nuts) with stainless installing the new items.

The original benches are split and need to be replaced so I am drilling all the rivets and taking out the bench with the seats and swivels.I have an idea for replacing the bench seats and stiffing the hull in one shot.I'm also adding some corner bracing.

Sounds like a plan!

 

[dedawg1149]

that will make a nice little boat

 

[ben2go]

that will make a nice little boat

Little is right.I hope to upgrade next year to a 14'.I can only take 1 child with me now.I have four that wanna go.Both my boys(5&11) and my step gurls(11&13) wanna go.

 

[dedawg1149]

hey the main thing is you are able to go i am sure you will upgrade later but enjoy this one while you got it =D>

 

[ben2go]

hey the main thing is you are able to go i am sure you will upgrade later but enjoy this one while you got it =D>

That's the plan.

 

[ben2go]

I should add that I am not loading this boat with all the bells and whistles.I will use this boat to fish a few small lakes and ponds around me.As you can see the boat is really light and I am trying to keep it that way.Right now I can pick the boat up by myself.As long as I can drag it around, I can load and unload it by myself.I may get a trailer but I go places that would wreck a trailer.Some places can't get a trailer to the water.Since I know my lakes fairly well I'll probably go bare bones.That doesn't mean I'm not going to do some trick stuff to this boat.Just keep watching. :mrgreen:

 

[ben2go]

No work today on the boat.Instead I dug into the Gamefisher 5hp.I got really good spark but I can't get it to bark.Even spraying ether in it won't start.It'll make a small muffled back fire every once in a while.Could I have a bad reed valve?I am going to clean the carb tomorrow and order any needed parts.The reed valve isn't available for my motor any more.I know compression has to be spot on.It feels like it has good compression.It's a lot tighter that any other 5 horse I've pulled the rope on.What would be good compression number for a 5hp 2 stroke?150-160?

 

[ben2go]

Sorry I haven't updated in a while.Here's the deal.I have been working on the Gamefisher 5HP and the Minn Kota 3HP trolling motor.I just posted my trolling motor repair thread.I'm about half done with both motors.I have stalled on the boat because I can't find any 1.25x1.25x1/8 aluminum angle locally.The stuff at Lowe's is nearly $30 for an 8' stick of it.Just to much.

Here's a break down of what I have got in the boat.
$300 for the boat.I bought it new in 1992
$40 for the new HIN,title,and registration.
$15 in gas to pick the boat up from the farm where I left it.
$3.12 for a spark plug for the 5HP Gamefisher.
$5.50 for 2 fuel filters for the Gamefisher.1 for the external tank and 1 for the internal tank.
$1.70 for 2 feet of 1/4 inch fuel line for the Game fisher.
$10 in gas to pick up the free Gamefisher outboard.
= $375.32
This is the cash out put so far.The free trolling motor didn't cost any thing in gas because it was handed to me as I was loading the boat up to bring it back home.I will have to put out about $35 for brushes and an upgraded aluminum prop.The prop upgrade is a few dollars more than a direct plastic replacement.This is assuming the control's circuit board is good. :roll:

 

[dedawg1149]

that is not a bad amount to have invested good luck on your circuit board

 

[ben2go]

that is not a bad amount to have invested good luck on your circuit board

Thanks.I hope that the circuit board is OK.I don't think it's bad.It was submerged but it wasn't connected to a battery.At least that's what I was told. :roll:

 

[ben2go]

Here's where I'm at.I have tried a few local metal suppliers and I can't find the aluminum angle that I want.So I have been working on the trolling motor and the outboard.I'm posting the links to those also.There are some good tips on the Gamefisher outboard and some insight on the Minn Kota trolling motor threads.

5HP Gamefisher link https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4585&hilit=gamefisher

MinnKota 3HP trolling motor link https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5453&hilit=3hp

 

[FishFry]

I have tried a few local metal suppliers and I can't find the aluminum angle that I want.

I don't know where you are in the upstate but if you can get to seneca then behind firehouse subs on 123 near 28 there's a place that may have what you want, and can order in whatever you dream up. They'll sell small drops out of their scrap bin or cut to size if you don't need 20'.

 

[twds]

I have a coleman crawdad I use on lakes, but did get my old 10' aluminum out last spring and started working on to use on the rivers. Had to replace transom on mine too. Just a sujestion, if you plan on using just a trolling motor on the transom, I ran battery cables from the rear to the front to equalize the weight a little better. Made a mount on the rear to clamp the trolling motor cables to or rigging it also if I do put the battery in the back I have a 12 volt cigarette lighter mounted up front if I need it for anything too. Just an idea. Also curious what your going to do about anchor mounts or anchor tie downs?

 

[ho_shi]

a 3 horse trolling motor?? is that what I seen sweet!! igot a 28 lb thrust that looks identical to it!!

 

[ben2go]

I have a coleman crawdad I use on lakes, but did get my old 10' aluminum out last spring and started working on to use on the rivers. Had to replace transom on mine too. Just a sujestion, if you plan on using just a trolling motor on the transom, I ran battery cables from the rear to the front to equalize the weight a little better. Made a mount on the rear to clamp the trolling motor cables to or rigging it also if I do put the battery in the back I have a 12 volt cigarette lighter mounted up front if I need it for anything too. Just an idea. Also curious what your going to do about anchor mounts or anchor tie downs?

I'm building in a battery box in the bow and using the trolling motor in the front and rear.If one of my boys go I'll be in the back.

a 3 horse trolling motor?? is that what I seen sweet!! igot a 28 lb thrust that looks identical to it!!

It's not 3 horsepower.It's just a misleading designation for that model of motor.It's probably 50 to 60 pounds of thrust max,if that.

 

[FishingBuds]

You finished with this ben2go?

want to show a pic of it to a buddy at work, he's got a 10' jon