Working on my Boat (Updated)

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If you use ospho, you don't have to do a lot of work with the wire wheel. Again, the ospho turns the rust into a primer.

The biggest thing is to make sure you've removed any thick rust scale, as this can flake off after you've painted. Beating with a 2 lb hammer will pretty much knock most of the scale away. A chipping hammer will work good on smaller parts, or persistent rust scale.
 
I have gotten a angle grinder with a sand paper wheel and the is really doing the trick, the only "scale" part seems to be on the bottom of the trailer where it looks like they didnt paint. Plus I am going over any rough spots and smoothing them out too.

So thanks to some help from my cousins we lifted the boat off the trailer and i can commence working on the trailer this week with out the boat being in the way.
 
I think i will extend the bunks a little past the third cross bar. As you can see in the first pic they only went to the second cross bar. Also I removed those rubber rollers. A rib of the boat was sitting right on top of the rollers and the bunks really were not doing much. I think I'll get one of those V brackets for the front, instead of the roller. Replace that old rusty cable winch and get a new trailer jack. The hitch is also dinged. Plan on getting that cut off and replaced.

Did some more grinding tonight and smoothing. Tomorrow I will turn the trailer over and work on the bottom side.

Not sure what that wood was for but it will not be on my trailer.
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Here is the trailer with most everything removed.
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Forgot to take a picture after i did some grinding. But i just hit the rusted spots and smoothed them out.
 
Good idea about extending the bunks to the forward cross member.

As for that wooden plank that goes toward the trailer tongue, that's more than likely a walk board, used to get into the boat without getting wet, or having to precariously balance oneself on the beam of the trailer to get in.
 
+1 on what PSG said, the first time you slip off the rail of the trailer trying to load or unload and you will soon realize what that plank is for.
 
lol oh man now that makes sense. My cousins and i couldn't for the life figure that thing out. Oh well balancing on the trailer and getting wet is part of the joy of owning boat. lol
 
If you still want a walkboard, though, I'd suggest using some composite boards, as they don't get saturated with water. That will at least prevent crevice corrosion of the steel tongue from being in contact with water-logged wood.
 
bigwave said:
+1 on what PSG said, the first time you slip off the rail of the trailer trying to load or unload and you will soon realize what that plank is for.


Still, a slip like that doesn't beat the slip I saw a guy do at the boat ramp one day. It was late afternoon, and one of these ocean cowboys came in after a day of drinking and fishing. He hastily put the boat on the trailer, didn't do a bad job at it....a lot better than most of the people at the ramp usually do.

Can't say the same for when he went to climb out of the bow and into the bed of the truck. He thought he'd have no trouble standing on the top of the winch post while wearing flip-flops, then just stepping into the bed of the truck. WRONG! needless to say, if he doesn't already have kids, I don't think he will have any after that, as groin impacts with winch posts aren't exactly going to help matters! :shock:
 
Yep, boat ramps are quality entertainment for all! :mrgreen:

If you don't believe that, just go to one on a weekend afternoon in the summer time, with a thunderstorms coming, and watch the drunken monkeys scramble. LOL
 
No doubt. Especially on a holiday summer weekend, right before a storm.

I put some non-skid tape stuff on the tounge of my trailer. Learned the hard way that they are slick when you try to walk on it. Fortunately it wasn't as bad as the other example.
 
Well gotta take a break from working on the boat. Darn fishing trip got in the way. haha Heading out to Table Rock tomorrow morning and Staying till Sunday. Do some fishing with Mike Webb on Friday, and solo the rest of the weekend. Should be fun we got a nice lake house rented and looking forward to relaxing for a few days.

Get my batteries recharged and hit the ole tinboat full steam when i get back!
 
Back from vacay Table Rock was not so kind hit some bad weather so the fish bite was weak. Still had a good time in a nice lake house and just enjoying getting away.

Now back to work on that trailer Monday after work!
 
Need some help/info ran into a snag when tearing down the rest of my trailer. After taking off the angle bar that holds the wench I notice a weak spot in my 2" square pipe. Do they make pipe in a size that can go from a 2" to 3" or something similar? My thought is to just cut off the bad and replace it. But with what? Some kind of collar that would slip over the remaining 2" square pipe that then goes to a different size? Can I just reinforce the weak spot with a few strips of metal welded to make it stronger? I took pics but net was down so I'm typing from my phone. Wanted to get question posted tonight and I can post pics tomorrow.
 
Angle on the corners in that spot (and extended out from it) should be fine. A good welder could fix it in no time. The other option if the wider metal is in the way of your winch post is to cut it off and weld a new piece on the end...I have thought of extending my trailer a few feet this way.
 
Here are the pics of the troubled spot, I think i would prefer to have it just cut off and be done. But i have no clue what you would do to connect a new piece of 2" square pipe.


imagekaga.jpg

imagexrc.jpg

imageorp.jpg
 
Trapper02 said:
Here are the pics of the troubled spot, I think i would prefer to have it just cut off and be done. But i have no clue what you would do to connect a new piece of 2" square pipe.


imagekaga.jpg

imagexrc.jpg

imageorp.jpg


Simple. You take your sawzall or torch, and make a nice, square cut. Then, you use a piece of smaller tube, such as 1 & 1/2" x 3/16" or 1/4" wall, about 10-12 inches long, fit it inside one half of the tube, then slide the other half over it. At that point, you can either weld the seam, and also use a couple of plug welds a few inches on either side of the seam, to keep the internal sleeve from sliding around, or, you can put bolts through it. Welding is preferable, of course.

Or, you can use a piece of larger tube, such as 2 1/2" x 3/16" wall, and slide over the 2 pieces. Similar to the internal sleeve method, but the internal sleeve method is less visible.

And finally, there's the good old method of fish-plating, using some 2" x 1/4" flat plate on the 2 vertical sides of the square tube, and either bolt or weld these plates in place.
 
Ok i think i got it. Just made a quick and dirty drawing, but if i understand you correctly it will be something like this?

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