Working on my Boat (Updated)

[PSG-1]

Exactly. You got it.

That internal sleeve should fit reasonably tight, as Draw tite trailer hitches use 2 inch tube, with a sleeve that fits inside. I think the wall thickness of the draw tite is about 1/4"...most likely, your trailer tongue is either 1/8 or 3/16"

And when you cut the tube, cut off any part that looks questionable, so you're butting 2 good pieces of material back together.

One other thing, take a coat hanger, a fish tape, or a long section of cable or rod, and secure your trailer wires to this with some tape, then shove the wires back in the tube beyond where you will be cutting. This keeps you from cutting or melting a wire. Once you get it all put back together, simply pull the wires back out the front of the tongue.

If you're bolting it together, and you REALLY want to make sure it's strong, use the internal, as well as the external sleeve, and bolt through all of it. The rest of the trailer will come apart before this connection ever does.

 

[Trapper02]

Perfect, my cousin can weld from working on his racecars and stuff. He stays pretty busy so getting together sometimes is tuff. But I am gonna try to get him to do it since he will be most knowledgeable that i know of and will work for a family price and will do it right

Thank you for the info for helping me.

At least i can continue to work on the rest of the trailer until then.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Another way is to cut the tongue at an angle this will increase the weld length. Then weld a gusset over the welds.

 

[PSG-1]

Another way is to cut the tongue at an angle this will increase the weld length. Then weld a gusset over the welds.

+1 If you cut both pieces at a 45, then flip the angles so that instead of making a 90 degree angle, you keep it straight. This does allow for a larger weld, and it allows for a weld to support up pressure, down pressure, and side pressure.

But if you use the internal sleeve, and secure it to the outer tubing with a couple of plug welds (drill 1/2" holes on either side of the outer tubing, then start arc on the inner tubing, form a puddle, and fill up the crater), then weld your seam, whether you go with a straight cut or an angle cut, it will be plenty strong.

 

[Trapper02]

Need some new Square U bolts. Been looking but my inside measurement is 1 7/8" a 2" inside would work too. This will hold my spring to my axle and there is a square metal plate welded on top of my axle that the u bolt goes through.

Main trouble seems finding one that the smooth part before you hit the threads is about 1" to 1 1/8" The bolt itself is 3/8"

Been looking for stainless steel just so i dont have to deal with rust.

Just seems like i am not having much luck. Anyone got a good trailer bolt site to reccomend? i'll keep the search up.

 

[PSG-1]

Look up Expediter Trailer Parts. if there's a part made for a trailer, these people have it!

And if they don't have it, then it doesn't exist!

 

[Trapper02]

here is a pic of the bolt for reference.

and here is how its goes together.

 

[user 7806]

Take the bolt to your local spring shop and they should be able to make you new one.

 

[Trapper02]

This seems to be the closest i can find so far.

3rd one down from the top. 3/8 X 1 9/16 X 2 1/2" STAINLESS U-BOLT
https://www.championtrailers.com/SS_BOLTS_UBOLTS.HTM

Its only 1 9/16" in the middle i need 1 14/16" Might be a snug fit, may not be the best idea.

I hope i dont have to go get some special made. I will continue the search though.

 

[nomowork]

I have found "hard to find" bolts and other hardware at a contractor's supply type business. It's like a candy store to a gear head! I found "J" bolts that no other local hardware store carried that would handle my truck kayak racks. One of my friends was shearing grade 8 bolts on his super charger pulley so I referred him to that store and he actually found grade 9 bolts that cured the problem!

 

[user 7806]

I 7/8" seems like a non stock size, I see 1 9/16", 1 3/4" then it goes to 2 1/6" all these in 3/8" diameter. From what I can tell they measure at the bottom of the U

 

[Trapper02]

After checking the holes on my axle plate it looks like i can go

1/2 in D with a 1 3/4" on the inside

If i go with what is on the trailer originally its more like

3/8" in D with a 2" on the inside.

What really seems to be hard is finding one with a short shaft and more on the thread length. I guess i could get a couple of those u bolt plate pad washer type things to put a little more space in there.

 

[Trapper02]

This would get the job done i bet if i am reading it right, and at the low low price of about $15 a bolt! lol

https://www.drillspot.com/products/1019208/approved_vendor_0156438_square_bend_u-bolt

 

[Frogman Ladue]

Err, no. You need a hardened u bolt. Stainless is too soft.

At least a grade 5, highly preferred is a grade 8.

 

[Trapper02]

Will that be Zinc? or Galvanized? I just really want something that wont rust. My old bolt is zinc it clearly didnt last so i dont want to replace it with that. If stainless isn't the way to go what is recommended?

 

[Trapper02]

Ok i think i have over thought this and made it harder than it should be on measuring for that bolt. While looking at springs it just hit me the spring width is 1 3/4" so my U Bolt inside measurement needs to be that too. I found these 2 for about $25 bucks. Yeesh stainless steel sure isn't cheap. But then again this boat was stored outside in the elements, i have a barn to keep it in. I probably would be okay to go with Hot Dipped Galvanized and save a few bones and not get the rust problems since boat will be stored out of elements.


Here is the stainless steel option.
1-3/4" wide
2-1/2" tall
2.20" center-to-center
Threads: 7/16"
Thread length: 1 ½"
Overall height: 3"
Inside heights: 2-5/8"
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stainless-Steel-U-Bolts,6968.html?baseNo=91633014#tabcontent

 

[PSG-1]

I have found "hard to find" bolts and other hardware at a contractor's supply type business. It's like a candy store to a gear head! I found "J" bolts that no other local hardware store carried that would handle my truck kayak racks. One of my friends was shearing grade 8 bolts on his super charger pulley so I referred him to that store and he actually found grade 9 bolts that cured the problem!

I've never even heard of grade 9! That's a new one for me. I'm familiar with grade 8 bolts, and those are some strong bolts....I think shear force for a 1/2" grade 8 bolt is about 150,000 PSI.

 

[Trapper02]

dang yea even at grade 8 seems like an over kill for my little tin boat.

 

[Trapper02]

Oh yeah and i Did a little test painting last night. I painted my angle piece that holds the winch. I was a little nervous about going with the ole rattle can, but shoot it looks nice! Granted i have only primed it right now, but i got one of those trigger sprays for the can worked like a charm. I'll probably hit it with a 2nd coat then paint it gloss black.

I thought Tractor Supply had rust-o-leum, they had valspar version of rust-o-leum so i am giving it a try. But it should do the job.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/valspar-anti-rust-armor-spray-paint-primer-red-oxide-12-oz--3401166

 

[KRS62]

The scariest thing I see in the pictures is the lack of a jack stand!! Jacks are made for lifting not supporting a load for an extended period of time.

This is the first thing I noticed as well!! I highly recommend a new jack and jack stands. If you are working on that trailer just on that jack, it's almost guaranteed to come down.

KRS