1956 Evinrude Lark 30 HP Tear down

[CedarRiverScooter]

A way to test bearings is to put pressure on the piston at bottom of stroke (like with a stick & clamp). Then turn crank to see how much play there is.

 

[Pappy]

Since that engine was apparently run on a 24:1 mixture I would doubt the bearings are worn. The way you are "testing" it is not a valid way.
As Shaugh mentioned. Keep oiling it down and turning it. Put the head back on and check compression. Those old engines are pretty bullet proof.
Let's go this route first before assuming you have failing parts internally.
Perhaps a better way to check a rod bearing or piston pin would be to turn the rotating assembly so that a piston is on the down stroke. Stop and lock the assembly in place. Place the wooden handle of a hammer against the piston and push straight down. There should be next to no movement. Compare the two assemblies.

 

[Shaugh]

I agree with Pappy. This motor has been sitting since Laugh In was the best show on TV. It shows none of the signs of a motor that was worn out or beaten to death. It appears to be all the same parts that came from the factory. Those are all good signs for a motor that can be easily revived.

 

[Piomarine]

All of this is good information and if y'all aren't concerned about it's condition then neither am I. I will check out the bearings as described. Before I put the head back on should I do anything to make sure it is true or to clean it up to make sure it seals well? Also, where do I find new gaskets? Final question for this round...how do I get any debris out of the crank case? I have noticed a lot of crud built up on the cylinders and just a lot of dirt and general gunk mixing with the oil. I want to keep it out of the bearings. Do I need to split the crank case to do this or can it be done with compressed air?

 

[Shaugh]

Motors are made to drain out. So stand the motor back up over a bucket and spray your ATF fluid anywhere you want... just soak it down and let it wash away the dirt. thinned ATF with acetone will work to clean the outside too... use a paintbrush and rub it in to liquify the black stuff.... While you're doing that spin the crankshaft with the drill.... once you've got it all liquified use hot soapy water ....

For the compression test just use the original gasket..

 

[Piomarine]

This is an admittedly stupid question and I’m almost embarrassed to ask...should I use some of the soapy water in the crank case as well or would that cause a nasty rusty mess? I know what it does in a car but I wasn’t sure if this was different.

 

[Shaugh]

Won't hurt a thing...

 

[Piomarine]

Good to know!

I am noticing as I work it with the drill that the motor is getting hung up in roughly the same position it got stuck in.

What is going to be my best resource for new gaskets and linkage boots?

 

[Shaugh]

You need a parts diagram.. then search the part number on ebay. Will see if I can find one.

Make a short movie on your phone while you're spinning the motor so we can see and hear it.

This is cool:
http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/index.php?title=1956_Evinrude_Lark

Here's some inspiration photos:
https://www.smalloutboards.com/e3556lark.htm

manual:
http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/images/a/a7/Evinrudeservice002.pdf

 

[Piomarine]

https://youtu.be/IrYT6UBIPvE

Here is the link to a short video I took yesterday.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Shaugh]

Looks fine... get it set back upright and keep it juicy with ATF..

 

[Piomarine]

It went back on the stand last night. I ran it a few more minutes tonight with a cordless drill (until both batteries died) spraying liberally with ATF and Acetone inside and out. My plan is to just keep running it at least a few minutes every night until it gets good and loose.

I actually have a parts diagram that another user sent me a few weeks ago.

 

[Shaugh]

I did some research trying to find parts diagrams last night and couldn't find anything. Good that you have one. Please give me a link to it.

While doing that I got an appreciation for how rare and complete that motor you have is. There are very few actual photographs on the web.

The paint scheme is a mystery... It appears original... but it's supposed to look like this:







That is one of the nicest looking motors ever made imo. Also that front cover piece might be the holy grail of outboard parts... very rare.

 

[Pappy]

I will private message you on a good source for parts. Let me know prior to when you want to make contact and I will make the initial contact for you.


Edit - You have a message you need to reply to.

 

[Piomarine]

Thanks Pappy! I used to have a guy not too far from me but he closed his store. That guy had every part for every old Johnnyrude you could think of! When I would walk in looking for parts for my ‘57 he would pull up his parts manuals on a microfiche! He was THAT old school!!!

 

[satx78247]

Piomarine,

SIERRA PARTS from your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store are about HALF the price & GOOD QUALITY. - Sierra sells every BIG TWIN part from circa 1955-75 other than the bare block & outer metal/plastic parts.

ImVho, avoid the overpriced "genuine" NOS parts unless you cannot find Sierra parts locally/by mail.

yours, tex

 

[nccatfisher]

Their ignition part are great if you like to make them custom fit. Or let the flywheel grind them down. Their carb kits are good also, if you don't need a complete kit.

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

I have mixed feelings about Sierra parts as well. I have had good luck with their coils but I have seen bad points. I mean how can you screw up points? Saw a whole batch of them that wouldn't test closed with a multimeter. I try to get factory when I can and when budget allows. I did order a Sierra impeller last week but I change them often enough anyway

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

 

[nccatfisher]

I have been guilty of using their water pumps really with no issues. Coils is what I hate especially on old smaller engines. I don’t know if it just my luck or what but their fit usually has been terrible and I spent more time fitting them than the actual job should have taken. Never that issue with OEM.

 

[Piomarine]

This is not the first complaint I have heard about Sierra coils. I will probably end up using OEM coils for the simple fact that they are easy to get and only cost about $1.50 more than the Sierras.

I’ve also found that marineengine.com is about 20% cheaper than Napa.