Circuit Breaker & Switch Panel Questions

[linesider]

I've got some questions about the wiring for my boat. When I decided to start the mod I bought a 6 switch and circuit breaker panel. I'll attach a photo. A year or so later I'm now starting to really think of placement of everything and what I need to wire everything correctly. The packaging shows the total circuit capacity is 35 amps and 7 individually. I'm trying to read more about it and I understand quite a bit of it but still have questions.

Question 1: I've got a rule bildge pump that shows it is rated for 2.5 amps. With the correct wire size in proportion of length of wire used can I safely connect the pump to a 7 amp circuit breaker. I think the lenght of wire used will be about 7'.

Question 2: How about the nav light and anchor light. I want them on separate circuits and since they pull less than 1 amp is the 7 amp too much as well.

Question 3: Really the same question as 1 and 2 but for the depth finder. I know this doesn't use much power either.

Question 4: Should I or will I need to go with fuses instead because I can't find a circuit panel with anything like 3 to 5 individual circuit breakers.

I'm thinking that I bought the wrong panel for my needs. Can anyone give me some advice and opinions.

Thanks!

 

[redbug]

when i installed my electronics i wired them to the fuse pannel but they are also fused at the proper amprage. you can use the switches as the on and off.

 

[KMixson]

The way I understand it, you have a switch panel that is rated 35 amps total. That would amount to be pulling 7 amps simultaneously through all of the switches/breakers. If each breaker is rated at 7 amps I would think you will still need to put a fuse between the panel and the item you are connecting if the item is rated less than 7 amps. That would be my guess. Someone else on here may have a better idea of what you need.

 

[linesider]

Thanks KMixson, that's what I was thinking. I think I probably need to research creating my own panel of circuit breakers & switches or find a pre-made fuse & switch panel.

 

[moi]

KMixon is correct. Seven amps is too much of a breaker and won't protect your low current draw accessories. They need to be protected with appropriately (lower) rated fuses/breakers.

:beer:

 

[Hanr3]

Link to my switch panel and fuses for each circuit.
Hopefully it will help you out.

Page 5 and after if the link takes you to the beginning.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6902&start=40

 

[linesider]

Thanks Hanr3, What you did looks great and looks like you know what you're doing. I need to start by drawing a diagram for what I need and placement of everything. Then it's trying to get the materials at low prices.

 

[Hanr3]

your welcome and thanks for the kudos.

Oddly enough trailer wiring isnt a bad deal. It usually comes in 25' lengths, has 4 or more wires, all color coded and is the proper gauge for most of your circuits. Plus its bundled together which makes routing it through the boat much easier and cleaner looking. You could buy spools of individual colors and tape them together or splurge for the wire looms (plastic sheathing like under a car hood). The other plus to trailer wiring is a connector, if oyu need to remove electronics after every trip, just unplug the connector and remove.

You should run a negative wire for all circuits, don't use the boat as the negative return. Wont work in a glass boat, and will cause corrosion problems in a tin boat. Not too mention the boat now is part of the electrical circuit and your in water. Not a good idea to be part of the circuit epsecially around water. Hence the CGFI in the bathrooms and kitchen areas.

You can use one negative wire for multiple circuits, however there are some things to consider. I would run electronics on its own circuit back to the fuse/battery. Nav lights and all around light could be on one negative and two power lines off the switch(s).
Run the trollign motor on its own circuit, do not add lights or fishfinders to the same wiring, even though the wire will carry the load. The motor creates noise in the electrical current which will be picked up by your electronics. Best to run the trolling motor back to the battery with a circuit breaker (not a fuse) in-line.