Lowe 16x48 Restoration

[FishFry]

I'm about to attempt what your describing (foam under aluminum deck) within the week. My current plan is foam the sides, and leave the middle open for water to head towards the back. And I'm going to lay in plastic sheet first, so if I ever need to fix anything under the deck, I won't have that foam stuck to everything. I'll have pictures up in my thread when I get it done.

Your making the right decision working in aluminum. Not really more expensive than wood + epoxy + carpet + weight + maintenance. MIG will work fine, just not as slick looking as TIG. Biggest problem with MIG will be the distance from the welding machine to all areas in the boat combined with needing to keep the feed line as straight as possible, as the aluminum wire will often not feed well if the line has sharp turn or loop in it.

 

[wyodeputy]

Well that is good to hear. Glad there is someone else doing the same thing. I'll be sure to watch for your thread. Just to clarify, are you gonna leave a channel in the middle of the floor for water, and then foam in everything else from that point to the sides? That actually sounds like a great idea. Anxious to see your pictures. Also, are you gonna mig weld the floor or rivet it down. As you said, you may need to remove the floor in the future? Do you think some sort of releasing agent on the underside of the floor piece would also work to keep the foam from sticking? I was concerned with this as well. I'm very interested in seeing your project. - Thanks

 

[dedawg1149]

i had a 24 foot sea ark that i did the floors and sides with diamond plate let me tell you it gets hot so i carpeted mine.i would take some pipe split it in half and lay them upside down in the original rain gully tape them to stay in place will you foam it

 

[FishFry]

To sort of answer your questions I'm planning on screwing the floor down to my framing with countersunk holes to keep everything flush. For a release agent you typically grease up everything but laying in a sheet of plastic seems much more effective to me. I'm leaving a channel down the middle.

 

[Cheeseball]

So here's an idea I had about bringing back some structural integrity after removing those seats: I'd like to use diamond plate aluminum on the floor and also on the sides (yes I'm prepared for a coronary when I see the price of that stuff). I thought maybe I could fill those sides and the floor with the pourable closed cell foam. I've heard manufacturers build the walls of walk-in freezers with that stuff and it actually has a lot of strength. So if I could pull this off, that would tie the sides and floor together (to some degree). Anybody think this would stay rigid enough to make up for the seat removal?

Welcome to the site wyodeputy!

You spoke of weight concerns. All that aluminum and foam sounds pretty heavy to me.

 

[MickT]

I will be watching to steal your ideas! I'm about to start on a Lowe 1448 that is laid out the same way.I am looking to set mine up for fishing and fowling as well.

 

[wyodeputy]

Cheeseball brings up a good point. I counted on some extra weight from the aluminum (it being considerably less than plywood) However, I never really considered the foam making a difference, I guess because well ... its foam. Anybody know what a cubic foot of that foam weighs? Please weigh in (pun intended).

 

[ben2go]

So here's an idea I had about bringing back some structural integrity after removing those seats: I'd like to use diamond plate aluminum on the floor and also on the sides (yes I'm prepared for a coronary when I see the price of that stuff). I thought maybe I could fill those sides and the floor with the pourable closed cell foam. I've heard manufacturers build the walls of walk-in freezers with that stuff and it actually has a lot of strength. So if I could pull this off, that would tie the sides and floor together (to some degree). Anybody think this would stay rigid enough to make up for the seat removal?

Welcome to the site wyodeputy!

You spoke of weight concerns. All that aluminum and foam sounds pretty heavy to me.

Cheeseball brings up a good point. I counted on some extra weight from the aluminum (it being considerably less than plywood) However, I never really considered the foam making a difference, I guess because well ... its foam. Anybody know what a cubic foot of that foam weighs? Please weigh in (pun intended).

Foam and aluminum won't be as heavy as wood,bracing,and carpet combined.When I was a pilot,I hung around the experimental and home built guys.They used the same foam to build wings.After they were reinforced with fiberglass,they were still really light.3 layers of fiberglass is pretty heavy compared to off the self aluminum diamond plate.

 

[Jim]

Are pictures of trailer manufacturing ok on the boat mods page?

Never even thought about it.... :-k

I guess put it where you feel is the best area for "exposure" and we can always move it.

And :WELCOME:

Thanks for joining! :beer:

 

[wyodeputy]

Hey there, I was wondering if you could let me know where you're buying the foam (two part mix?) If its mail order or you got it on the internet, could I have the link? Again, I'm anxious to see how yours turns out? Thanks

I'm about to attempt what your describing (foam under aluminum deck) within the week. My current plan is foam the sides, and leave the middle open for water to head towards the back. And I'm going to lay in plastic sheet first, so if I ever need to fix anything under the deck, I won't have that foam stuck to everything. I'll have pictures up in my thread when I get it done.

Your making the right decision working in aluminum. Not really more expensive than wood + epoxy + carpet + weight + maintenance. MIG will work fine, just not as slick looking as TIG. Biggest problem with MIG will be the distance from the welding machine to all areas in the boat combined with needing to keep the feed line as straight as possible, as the aluminum wire will often not feed well if the line has sharp turn or loop in it.

 

[wyodeputy]

Here's the Mud Buddy 45HP that's going on the Lowe. Like I said in a previous post, the elevation and carbeurator are killing my power here so keeping the Lowe as light as possible is a must. The guys at Mud Buddy tell me another $1200 in after market add-ons (twin carbs) will boost the motor's power up to a 60 hp but I'd rather spend that money on the boat restoration.

 

[dedawg1149]

nice motor

 

[Zum]

I think those things a cool.
How they can go threw the flats,bounch when they hit stumps,etc.
I'm looking at the exhaust...they must be pretty loud.
Any louder hen a regular outboard?

 

[ben2go]

That's the first mud motor I've seen that didn't have a straight shaft from the motor to the prop.Kind looks like an out board on steroids.I like it.looks rugged and stronger than and outboard.I'm sure it is stronger.

 

[Cheeseball]

I'm about to attempt what your describing (foam under aluminum deck) within the week. My current plan is foam the sides, and leave the middle open for water to head towards the back... I'll have pictures up in my thread when I get it done.

I like the idea of keeping the middle open for water. You can hose the whole lot out that way. I'm also getting ready to restore a jon 1436 and I'm thinking of making a deck from aluminum mesh, like they use on cat walks. Maybe even give the mesh a coat of bed liner before installing.

 

[ben2go]

I like the idea of keeping the middle open for water. You can hose the whole lot out that way. I'm also getting ready to restore a jon 1436 and I'm thinking of making a deck from aluminum mesh, like they use on cat walks. Maybe even give the mesh a coat of bed liner before installing.

You will need to add more bracing.Aluminum mesh is really weak unless it's stamped out of some thick plate.Stainless mesh is another option and it's not much heavier than the thick aluminum needed for walking on.

 

[wyodeputy]

Yeah they really have come a long way with mud motors. Growing up in SE Texas, the straight shaft Go-Devil's were really popular. Several other manufacturers build them now and they all have this build. Mud Buddy calls theirs a hyper sport drive. Although the straight shafts are still around, they're becoming more and more scarce.

I had originally run a yamaha jet but in my local river, the moss would plug the intake within 100 feet and shut that thing down quick. It became quickly apparent I had to have a mud motor to run it effectively due to the shallowness and moss so I sold it and got this thing last November. Idling at the ramp it sounds about like a harley with a pretty mellow tone but at full throttle it is loud.

Zum, you mentioned their running capabilities, check out this link I put on youtube last November: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDYfTbE68Dw

They make all kinds of claims about mud, sand, hydrilla ... I think I'm the first to really test it in these conditions. I got all kinds of cautions from viewers telling me to wear the kill switch (which I forgot all about.)

By-the-way, after restoring my Lowe, it will NOT be subject to this kind of running (not purposely ... anyway) The alumacraft did fine but its just too heavy with a load.

Anyway, thanks for posting.

I think those things a cool.
How they can go threw the flats,bounch when they hit stumps,etc.
I'm looking at the exhaust...they must be pretty loud.
Any louder hen a regular outboard?

 

[Cheeseball]

You will need to add more bracing.Aluminum mesh is really weak unless it's stamped out of some thick plate.Stainless mesh is another option and it's not much heavier than the thick aluminum needed for walking on.

The stuff I've seen seems pretty heavy.

 

[Zum]

Man,looks like you needed a ice breaker not a jon boat.
Did that episode put any dents of your hull?
Pretty tough boat if it didn't.
Was that a musk rat on the ice that you scared?

 

[wyodeputy]

Nope, no dents. Very tough hull which is why my boat is too heavy. Also, the hull has a slight V to it, another reason why its not a good shallow water boat. Good eye on the little critter - it was a muskrat !