Rig Rebuild - FINISHED

[clarker2000]

Carpet the deck after you attach it to the deck. It works great. Check 14 ft flat bottom sea nymph mod. We just finished her up and it looks great. The carpet was very easy. We had a stainless steel 3 ft ruler that we used to get in real tight to all the edges. Push the ruler up as close as you can and have a buddy make the cut. Take your time dont rush and it will trun out fine. Hit me back for questions. I do reccomend checking out my post. Might also be under the name of BASSHOLE. Good luck, looks great so far.

 

[LarryA]

OK, found today that my plan for a storage hatch behind the original front seat is an issue I need to decide on. Turns out that about all I have room for is a hatch about 18"W X 3-1/2" H. I'm debating this as a place to stash rope and maybe my extra flotation vest. Otherwise, there is a whole lot of dead space under there. Opinions?

Gave it thought and an access this small is pretty much useless, I'd have a hard time even gtting my hand in the opening.

 

[LarryA]

This evening, I decide to check and found that I need to replace the wood in my transom. This is in-between two aluminum walls and measures 1-5/16" thick. I'll probably go tomorrow or Sunday to see what I can get that is 19/32" thick and glue two pieces together. I checked the Lowe's web site and the only thing it shows stocked is OSB plywood in that thickness. I'm wondering if this is alright to use? I did some reading and it is a waterproof type plywood (to some extent). I was thinking two piecs of this glued then the edges sealed with some bondo and waterproofing over everything.
I'll get just exterior plywood if I can find it in the right thickness but judging from what I've cut already, that will also need cut end filling at spots too.
So, based on this info, what route do you thing would be best?

 

[LarryA]

Finished cutting the floor this morning. Now ready to complete frame cross brace assembly, waterproof, carpet. I'll be taking everything back out of the boat and cleaning it good and get it ready for interior paint while I complete all the flooring for installation. Progress is moving along at a good pace now. All the fabrication is finished, with the exception of the transom insert wood and that I can get done as I have time.

I'm looking at completion of the project within the next couple weeks.

Thanks for looking,

Larry

 

[Zum]

Looks good.

 

[LarryA]

Got the marine plywood for the transom that needs replacing. Boy, that stuff is a salty price! Oh well. I guess what some guy I know said could be looked at to be true. He says "A boat is a hole in the water that you stick money into.".

 

[LarryA]

Got paint on the inside of the boat today. I wasn't expecting this light of a blue but it's ok. Up close it doesn't look as good as the pictures but considering what it was like, it turned out alright. The outside looks like crap anyway. At least the inside is now one color and no longer full of unused screw holes. Should look better when the flooring is in.

 

[russ010]

that looks awesome - you'll be amazed of the difference of the look once you get the flooring in... it really brings out the best in the boat. Great Job! :beer:

 

[Loggerhead Mike]

looks great

 

[ober51]

Great job - I like the color.

 

[rcgreat]

Looking good, I also like the color. =D>

 

[LarryA]

It appears it was a good idea to take some vacation days and work on the boat. As in my last post, i got the interior painted. Today I got the framing in, wired for the battery and breaker at the battery, installed the framing, installed the front decking and flooring. The fit could have been better but it suits me fine. Much better than what I started with.
I do have one question: Would 3M 77 Spray adhesive hold some carpet to the tops of the center and rear seats? I'm thinking of doing that because I think the painted seats will just get all scratched up.

Today's progress:

 

[ober51]

Looks SHARP =D> . If you could, can you take a picture of the wiring and the breaker and anything else. As someone who can barely tell the difference from +/- I would really appreciate it.

As for the question. I think you can just use another piece of wood, wrap in carpet, and attach to the seat. I don't think I would put the carpet directly on the seat. By using the wood you could also attach seat mounts without going into the seat. Though you'd be going into the seat with the wood anyway (but I think the wood would look sharper). Hope that helps a bit. Please post those electrical pics!

 

[LarryA]

Looks SHARP =D> . If you could, can you take a picture of the wiring and the breaker and anything else. As someone who can barely tell the difference from +/- I would really appreciate it. <snip>
Please post those electrical pics!

Can Do.
Picture of battery compartment with breaker and cables in place. This will be may main breaker for the feed. Another breaker at the rear will be for the trolling motor.

In this picture, the Blue And Black wires are for the bow running light; the the large Red and Black are my battery feeds to the stern. All the wires/cable were secured with plastic wire clips screwed to the framing.

This picture shows feeds sen in above picture and also the power & transducer wires for the sonar:

 

[ober51]

First looks awesome, you really did a great job, neat and all flush. Second, if you dont mind, a couple questions:

1. What is the circular cutout in the first picture, near the bottom?
2. What size screws did you use in the strong ties? And what size strong ties?
3. How is the wood framing attached to the bottom of the boat? I didn't see the strong ties that others used, so I am curious.
4. What gauge wire did you use?
4. Where did you buy the breakers? And is it simply running them in between the battery and the device I wish to power? How many batteries do you have to run all your electronics?

Ok so it was more than a few questions. But I haven't been getting many answers in my thread, and you have been doing great work. Thanks again!

 

[LarryA]

First looks awesome, you really did a great job, neat and all flush. Second, if you don't mind, a couple questions:

1. What is the circular cutout in the first picture, near the bottom?
2. What size screws did you use in the strong ties? And what size strong ties?
3. How is the wood framing attached to the bottom of the boat? I didn't see the strong ties that others used, so I am curious.
4. What gauge wire did you use?
4. Where did you buy the breakers? And is it simply running them in between the battery and the device I wish to power? How many batteries do you have to run all your electronics?

Ok so it was more than a few questions. But I haven't been getting many answers in my thread, and you have been doing great work. Thanks again!

Thanks. Answers to your questions:
1. The cutout is a custom fit insert for my Optima battery. It has cylindrical cells and this will hold the battery in place so it cannot shift around.
2. If you mean the aluminum brackets, I made them from 1"x1" aluminum angle. I used #10 X 1" SS Screws. The wood framing is 1-1/2" square and fastened together with #10 SS square drive screws in 2-1/2" & 3" lengths.
3. It's actually not. The front (behind the original front seat is held down by a 1-1/2" square piece of the framing wood and the floor attachés to that. The rear is held with the framing screwed to the face or the seat. I need to add two brackets at the middle seat so that area cannot lift. I don't see it going anywhere.
4. The battery feed cables are 4AWG Marine (made up by and ordered from Genuinedealz.com). The short battery cable is only 6 gauge (because that's the biggest I could find locally and it's a battery cable for a vehicle). The wiring for the lights and sonar is 16 gauge. All connections are soldered and shrink tubbed (no splice connectors).
5. I got the breaker in the battery compartment from https://wiringproducts.com and it is an 80 AMP. My Breaker for the trolling motor at the stern is a 60 AMP.
And YES, the breaker goes between the battery and the device it is protecting. In my case the one at the battery compartment is there to protect everything to the rear of the boat. I made a switch panel for the stern that will feed the trolling motor, fuse block, switch panel, and a 12 volt outlet.

As for batteries. I'm only running one battery, an Optima 31M Blue Top. So far I've had no problem with power but then I don't use the trolling motor all that much. Generally, when I move it's enough to use the outboard.

 

[daltonmcgill]

looks great =D>

 

[russ010]

Boat looks great man!

You can use that adhesvie spray to put your carpet on with... but, like ober said - if you plan on putting seat pedestals, i would recommend using 1/2 - 3/4 wood screwd to the tops of the seats. I will look a lot cleaner and give you some meat to screw your seat mounts into.

 

[michiganman18]

My suggestion for not wanting to scratch the seats would be to make a plywood box and carpet that, which would just fit over and sit on the seat. similar to what you did in the bow. If you dont understand what i mean go ahead and ask. Think the seat is a stick of butter and the plywood casing to cover it would be the butter dish cover.

Weird, I know, but maybe you can see it better.

 

[LarryA]

My suggestion for not wanting to scratch the seats would be to make a plywood box and carpet that, which would just fit over and sit on the seat. similar to what you did in the bow. If you dont understand what i mean go ahead and ask. Think the seat is a stick of butter and the plywood casing to cover it would be the butter dish cover.

Weird, I know, but maybe you can see it better.

My seats clamp down the front and back of the seat and lock with brackets screwed fast to the seat front and rear. The wood top carpeted is probably the best way to go. I was thinking that just carpeting the tops would keep the weight down a bit. On the other hand, I also thought that the plywood top would be a better mounting method for my seats than the clamp type brackets that were used before. Hate to have to buy another whole sheet of plywood for just those two pieces. What's left from my transom build is wide enough for two pieces but not long enough. That sucks. Have to give this some thought.

The upside to a bad day at work was that I got home and checked the fit of the new transom and it fits great. Now i can get going to finish that up so i can finish the rest of the interior and wiring.