Tough decision/need help

[tomme boy]

I used a nut driver instead of a screwdriver. Works much better. Make sure you get the right filter. The ones on Ebay are the wrong ones. They changed the filter when they made these fuel injected. Don't forget to get an O-ring for the plate as well. Better to have one and not need it. I tried to find a aftermarket filter and the new # does not cross reference to anything yet. Maybe in a year or more once there are more of these out there.

 

[scoobeb]

Tomme boy the number for the filter is 16510-45h10 and they do sell them on ebay,tons of them.

 

[tomme boy]

scoobeb » 20 Oct 2013, 01:52[/url]"]Tomme boy the number for the filter is 16510-45h10 and they do sell them on ebay,tons of them.

There is only one person selling the filter with the new #. I sent a email to K&N to do a cross reference check. For right now till I heard from them, I would not buy any on the K&N filters listed on there for the df15. The Suzuki #'s are different from the df15 to the df15a. Or the 20 as you have.

 

[scoobeb]

There is a video on you tube with a guy who changes the oil in 20aes suzuki which is the one i have,he i believe works for suzuki in i want to say russia or one of those foreign countries and that is the exact filter he used while changing the filter for the oil,that was the exact fit for what i have and from what i have seen on ebay they sell tons of them but it doesn't matter anyway because i'm going to buy at my local suzuki dealer right down the road,if either of the 3 in my area doesn't have them or is way to expensive then i will go the ebay route.

I don't like buying anything on ebay unless i have to.

 

[tomme boy]

OK, let me say it a little better so you can understand. That # you have is the right # for the fuel injection motors. There is only one place on Ebay right now that is selling that #. The other filters on there are for the df15 and df20 and df9.9. These motors are carbureted and the # for the oil filter is different than the one for the EFI motors. No one has a filter out besides Suzuki for these motors right now. That was why I put an email into K&N to see what they have to say about the new part# from Suzuki.

Can I ask how old you are? 21-25?

 

[scoobeb]

Suzuki never made a 20hp carbed 4stroke,trust me i know that for a fact,15hp yes they made a carbed motor on that.All of suzuki's new 15's and 20's are efi,they also are making all the 9.9 efi's.I get what your saying.Call suzuki as i did they would know more then anyone,thats were i get my info.It's all good though i will find it,and thank you for warning me of that to just so i had a heads up. :mrgreen:

 

[turbotodd]

I have no experience with Suzuki, other than I borrowed a boat that had an old DT25 3 cylinder on it.

Do have experience with the 15 and 20 hp Tohatsu 4 stroke though. It's not a bad motor at all. But you can see where costs were cut. Manual choke. Exposed shift linkage. Vibrates a little more. Noisier. Comparing to Yamaha F15/F20. I've run the Tohatsu...power tilt model 20 HP, like I said it's not a bad motor at all. I just didn't have anything else to compare it to other than the Yamaha's.

Sounds like you got what you wanted, and that is awesome. Let us know how goes it with the new 'zuke. Like I said, I have ZERO experience with Zuke and would like to see feedback.

Break-in? Just run it. If it breaks within the first couple hours of use, it was going to break anyway and then we'll see how Suzuki will handle it.

 

[scoobeb]

Thats the first time anyone has made sense on the breakin.Ty.Most people seem to think you have to baby these things in the beginning and that is the worst possible thing you can do for them.I hear all the time suzuki or any manufacture will deny a warranty claim if you don't follow the brekin peroid,that is so false.I have owned like i said a few brand new ones and i had an issue with one and i don't just go wot out of the box but i do run it hard and vary the rpms up and down for like 5hrs.I go wot for like 5 to 10 min every once in a while to.Merc dealer did not mention a thing about breakin when i took it in to get fixed,he could care less about the breakin.

If i had to guess,now this is a guess,i would say maybe at best 20% of people who buy a brand new outboard go by the breakin because they just can't control wanting to hit that wot and thats a good thing they just don't know it.It has to be run hard to seat the rings properly.Yes it needs to have a proper warm up everytime you go,say a good 5 min at least then just run it as you normally would and there will be no issues unless as you stated no matter what speed you go it just had issues from the start it just hasn't happened yet till a few hrs later.

I love tohatsus, i have owned 5 of them,i just wanted a new brand i have never owned before and this seems to be the keeper for the long term.

 

[airbornemike]

Bump! Any updates on this? Suzuki is coming out with a 25hp version this spring and I need to make a decision by march.

 

[scoobeb]

What do you need to know,if the 20hp suzuki is as good as advertised?The 25hp suzuki looks interesting but it's a bit away from coming out.As soon as i get my boat in the water i will give you wot speeds and how it runs.It should be tom or tues i'm going to do all my testing.I'm going to get an 11 and 12 pitch prop for it,i have heard many stories so far from other forums that the motor has so much power that the 10pitch prop over revs and you need at least an 11 pitch prop.I will let you know how it runs with the 10pitch prop.

 

[airbornemike]

Thanks, I'm just weighing my options. I'm deciding between a 20hp and a 25hp,I'm powering a 250lb skiff hull. I've been researching all the outboards like a psycho, the Suzuki low weight is very appealing. How is the shallow water trim? I will be skinny and on rivers a lot so I'm curious if tilting the engine a number of times throughout an outing will be a PIA.

scoobeb » Today, 12:11[/url]"]What do you need to know,if the 20hp suzuki is as good as advertised?The 25hp suzuki looks interesting but it's a bit away from coming out.As soon as i get my boat in the water i will give you wot speeds and how it runs.It should be tom or tues i'm going to do all my testing.I'm going to get an 11 and 12 pitch prop for it,i have heard many stories so far from other forums that the motor has so much power that the 10pitch prop over revs and you need at least an 11 pitch prop.I will let you know how it runs with the 10pitch prop.

 

[scoobeb]

Tilting it is a breeze.I thought the same thing,i thought it would be a pia.It's got 2 shallow water trim positions.I am going out for the first time today on a lake to do test runs,wot speed with the 10pitch prop.I know i will have to get an 11pitch prop when i'm alone i would think.My boat weighs in at 180lbs so it's only a few lbs lighter.I think you would be way better off with a light 106lb 20hp then a 150+25hp.Plus the dif in price is quite a bit.I will let you know all what i feel about this motor after i do a bunch of test to see speed at wot and other throttle ranges,ease of use of the outboard,i will say it's a piece of cake to pull start,pull it till you feel the compression kick in,then release it back to the motor with your hand on it still,then do a full pull,not to hard but enough to engage the efi to start it and thats it.

It will run rough for like the first 10-20hrs because it needs some use on it to break in all the parts,they need to mesh good together.That is expected though.With use it will get better and better.Try to use non ethanol gas if you can,if not it won't hurt it if you use the gas within a mth that's in the tank.I use this stuff called k100,go to k100.com and read up on it,the best stabilizer for gas on the market.Iv'e tried it all,i mean it all and this stuff blows everything out of the water.It will keep gas good for a yr,even ethanol.I use it in my car,lawnmower,weed eater,boat,etc....Anything that takes gas.When i get my permanent boat i will use a yamaha fuel/water seperater to try and eliminate any water of dirt in the fuel.

I will give you an update asap.

 

[airbornemike]

Update on your splash?

scoobeb » 08 Dec 2013, 23:44[/url]"]Tilting it is a breeze.I thought the same thing,i thought it would be a pia.It's got 2 shallow water trim positions.I am going out for the first time today on a lake to do test runs,wot speed with the 10pitch prop.I know i will have to get an 11pitch prop when i'm alone i would think.My boat weighs in at 180lbs so it's only a few lbs lighter.I think you would be way better off with a light 106lb 20hp then a 150+25hp.Plus the dif in price is quite a bit.I will let you know all what i feel about this motor after i do a bunch of test to see speed at wot and other throttle ranges,ease of use of the outboard,i will say it's a piece of cake to pull start,pull it till you feel the compression kick in,then release it back to the motor with your hand on it still,then do a full pull,not to hard but enough to engage the efi to start it and thats it.

It will run rough for like the first 10-20hrs because it needs some use on it to break in all the parts,they need to mesh good together.That is expected though.With use it will get better and better.Try to use non ethanol gas if you can,if not it won't hurt it if you use the gas within a mth that's in the tank.I use this stuff called k100,go to k100.com and read up on it,the best stabilizer for gas on the market.Iv'e tried it all,i mean it all and this stuff blows everything out of the water.It will keep gas good for a yr,even ethanol.I use it in my car,lawnmower,weed eater,boat,etc....Anything that takes gas.When i get my permanent boat i will use a yamaha fuel/water seperater to try and eliminate any water of dirt in the fuel.

I will give you an update asap.

 

[scoobeb]

Sorry not yet,i'm going to try and head out tom morning.